On 27 and 28 November, the Cantonese restaurant Jiang-Nan Chun, at the Four Seasons Hotel Singapore, serves an eight-course menu written by three chefs. Read course by course, it draws a geography more precise than its title.
Alan Chan, executive chef of Jiang-Nan Chun, an address selected by the Michelin guide, handles the Cantonese part. Opposite him, Mathew Leong, a Singaporean and executive chef in Norway, represented Singapore at the Bocuse d’Or 2025 and won the title of best Asian chef of the edition there. The Swede Daniel Windelhed, executive pastry chef, closes the meal.
Canton, through broth
Chan signs three courses, and the technique can be read in the title: a crispy Taraba king crab in a golden Hua Diao wine sauce, a soup double-boiled from soft-shell turtle skirt, geoduck, fish maw and conpoy (dried scallop), then an orzo braised with Australian lobster in a golden broth. The crab plays on the sweetness of the flesh, the soup on the slowness of extraction. Orzo, a pasta of Italian origin, enters Cantonese cooking through the broth.
Mathew Leong’s North
The two dishes Leong signs alone mix registers on the same plate. The trout arrives with a lukewarm ebi botan, leek, pickled ginger, Kristal caviar and blue mussel in aromatic oil, accompanied by sourdough bread, Jersey butter and Lofoten seaweed. The duck receives a mole glaze of fermented plum, beetroot and a bitter salad, then a dumpling of duck leg and foie gras in a smoked tea consommé with kaffir lime oil, and a flaky milk bun with cherry blossom. The North of the title passes here through a cook from Singapore, and his plates read as much toward Asia as toward Scandinavia.
A dish carries two names
On the menu, only one course is presented as created by Chan and Leong together: a charcoal-smoked Iberian pork, with aged mandarin peel, an ingredient associated with Cantonese cooking. The smoke on one side, the peel on the other.
Seasons, imported
Windelhed finishes with two desserts that answer each other. First Bloom brings together green apple granita, elderflower ice cream, cucumber and dill, for spring. Last Harvest combines vanilla ice cream, hazelnut choux, blackcurrant gel and brown butter, for autumn. In Singapore, where the temperature barely varies from one month to the next, it is the only course of the evening to tell of seasons.
In most courses, one recognises the hand of a chef. The pork’s, neither could claim alone: it is the dish to look at closely to judge the encounter.
Details
Canton Meets the Nordics, on 27 and 28 November 2026, at the restaurant Jiang-Nan Chun, Four Seasons Hotel Singapore, 190 Orchard Boulevard. Eight-course menu at SGD 398++ per person, with a glass of Taittinger Brut Réserve on arrival. Reservations: +65 6831 7653, WhatsApp +65 9455 3466 or [email protected]. Consulted on 3 November 2026.
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