In its second season, Ennio Capasa’s footwear project opens up to menswear and takes a stand: no artificial intelligence in the design, only hands.
Among the designers who marked the 1990s, there is a demand for materials that has never wavered. Ennio Capasa, founder of the emblematic brand Costume National, finds it again today through Capasa Milano Shoes, the footwear project he launched two seasons ago and which, for Spring-Summer 2027, reaches a new stage: the arrival of a men’s collection alongside the already established women’s line, under a single creative language.
Twenty-five women’s models and twenty-three men’s models make up this new collection, distributed by Spazio Coltri in Europe, the Middle East and Africa and by CD Network in North America. At Capasa Milano, the manufacturing process remains a non-negotiable principle: each leather is beaded by hand before assembly, in order to strengthen the structure of the shoe and give it a precious, sophisticated effect. This artisanal stage unites the two collections, women’s and men’s, preserving the integrity of the materials and the human dimension of the creative gesture.
As for shapes, the women’s line combines design and comfort in an advanced ergonomic study: each silhouette is conceived for balance and stability while retaining a distinct character. Slightly raised toe caps ease movement, while the house’s signature points are hand-studded to emphasise their edge. The men’s collection, for its part, explores deconstructed, light and flexible shapes that reinterpret the Italian shoemaking tradition in a pared-back, instantly recognisable language, between heritage and innovation.
The heels, hand-shaded from dark to light, sum up on their own the synthesis the house is seeking between innovation and tradition: an aesthetic search that meets genuine artisanal mastery. The finishes, lastly, are worked with rare waxes applied in the very last stages of manufacture, which bring light, depth, richness and a unique patina — the signature of a know-how rooted in creativity, heritage and the culture of great Italian leatherwork.
In an increasingly uniform fashion landscape, Capasa Milano makes a choice that it embraces as an identity: its shoes are created without recourse to artificial intelligence, at any stage of design or manufacture. A statement of method that takes on particular weight as the Shoes project expands: through its women’s and men’s collections, Ennio Capasa tells of a future he wants to be more human, more conscious, more personal — also a way of putting the hand back at the centre of a craft in which it is becoming ever rarer.
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