The lush flora of contrasting Polynesia has a mathematical rigor: this clash is at the heart of the Leonard Paris Spring-Summer 2018 collection.
Each piece is as much a reflection of aesthetics as it is of thought: a dialogue between nature and nurture, nature and culture, control and letting go, and the quest for desire.
A rigorous men’s and sailor’s wardrobe opens the show, with streamlined peacoats, redesigned oilskins and structures highlighted in white, slowly juxtaposed with striped and floral prints. As the show progresses, pieces are deconstructed, shed and blurred. Jackets and parkas take on shawl collars and kimono cuts.
Like the sails of a boat billowing in the whimsical winds and tugging at the ropes, oversized dresses with bare backs show both tension and release.
The orchid, the figurehead of the collection, is graphic, multicolored, printed in lamé silk, shimmering like the reflections of waves on wet sand.
The color palette is a journey in itself: sunshine yellow, cheeky orange, vibrant pink, ocean blue, foam white and emerald green; not to mention metallic hues reminiscent of mother-of-pearl shells.
Jewelry made of large, balanced pearls emphasizes the body’s joints. Geometric flora and architectural sensuality, this harmony of opposites is this season’s Ariadne’s thread.
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