LES SANTONS DE PROVENCE
Spring-Summer 2017
Simon Porte Jacquemus proposes a new exploration of the imaginary of Provence. Not through a motif, or a particular color, but through the suggestion of a culture, an atmosphere, typical moments in life, with reference to the emblematic figurines that are the Santons de Provence. A masterly show that left its mark on this fashion week!
Particular attention is paid to the notion of the figurine, the character whose costume synthesizes all the identity elements of a profession, a situation…: the Arlésienne, the Grand Père, the Baker, the Shepherd, the Washerwoman, the Bohemian… Santons de Provence is the main theme of the Spring-Summer 2017 collection.
Filippo Fior
32 silhouettes that are at once highly contemporary and almost suspended in time, combining references to Provencal costume with modern, free reinterpretations of tradition. This dialogue, coupled with a play on dimensions, breathes a special energy into the collection.
Always present at JACQUEMUS: the reference to the two essential shapes of the round and the square, serving as an underlying reading grid for the formal language of garments and accessories, and the ongoing reference to the basics of the men’s wardrobe (the shirt above all, then the jacket and pants), reworked here with volumes that are often exaggerated and tightened at the waist, and borrowing from traditional embroidery and pleating techniques.
A collection that echoes this Provençal experience, with a certain simplicity and essential elegance. And so, intentionally poor in the noble sense of the word: natural materials, notably linen, cotton or wool, and white lace; legible, clearly drawn silhouettes; neutral, calm colors: black (and brown, navy), white, beige, sometimes contrasted with a few hints of red and a single motif: the polka dot, in reference to the Bohemian.
Formal variation around the sleeves, accentuated by a play of volumes or angles on the shoulders, and the collars, often V-shaped here, echoing the shape of the fichu knotted and folded into a triangle, characteristic of the Arlésienne costume.
A wide range of pants: from the straight pants of a grandfather or 3/4-length pants, to the extra-long, flowing pants belted under the chest, to the more geometric ‘flat’ pants, a nod to the taste for two-dimensionality.
A few skirts with elegant, full volume, or enhanced with an accumulation of fan pleats, for a more bohemian look.
Flat shoes with straps and pumps take up the JACQUEMUS signature of round and square heels.
Last but not least, every silhouette in the show is adorned with the classic wide-brimmed Provencal hat in woven straw.
Fashion show music: Clara 3000: main theme from the film “Jean de Florette”.
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