Images come together like a patchwork: New Yorkers in jeans in the early nineties, the audacity of the 40s silhouette, the street energy of East Village, the effortless sensuality of Paris, the syncopated rhythm of an urban tribal dance, the voluptuousness of timeless couture… Perfused with these snapshots of yesterday and today, Didit Hediprasetyo’s Fall-Winter 2014-2015 Couture Collection contains no retro temptations. Nothing vintage, everything here and now, nourished by the zeitgeist. A leather bomber layered over a train dress, denim dungarees revisited on bare skin. Oversized shoulders and a loose fit rub up against the rope-like cuts of second-skin dresses. Square toes that lick the asphalt, draped silk jersey that reveals flesh with every step, panic modesty, exalt the body in motion.
Variations on the jacket, this modern powerdressing: a denim Boyfriend Jacket with khaki lambskin lapels gives way to a denim spencer with ribbed stitching on the reverse and a lambskin bolero with tilted volumes on the back. Like the silhouette’s plumb line, it’s passed over a top with the rounded lines of a bodysuit and high-waisted chambray pants to die for.
The “jolie madame” denim dresses have the bustier laid right on the tulle. Leather straps muscularize and radicalize the look. The chevron of songket, traditional Balinese brocade, punctuates the volume of a fox-neck jacket.
Atelier Lesage’s work distills its poetry and savoir-faire with embroideries of birds fluttering on the length of a skirt, a sparrow drawn in thread on a tube dress in army green polo knit, or stars on a denim jacket.
Contrasts of urban denim, romantic decor, rich songket and tailoring inherited from the forties make up the day and night dressing room of this Didit Hediprasetyo girl.
A personal style all her own.
Photo credit: Patrice Stable
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