“Free man, you will always cherish the sea! The sea is your mirror, you contemplate your soul…” Charles Baudelaire
Clearly inspired by the world of the sea, Luis Buchinho’s Fall Winter 2011-2012 collection is more casual than usual, but nonetheless imbued with sophistication. The Luis Buchinho woman loves natural materials and makes this known without ostentation. Hair is slicked back and slightly damp, while make-up is ultra-purified. Only a golden shadow illuminates the eyes, as if to break the rule.
For the Portuguese designer, there’s no “marinière”, even if stripes play a major role in this very sober wardrobe, but rather a focus on knitwear and woollens for a de rigueur cocooning atmosphere. Draping and cut-out effects bring elegance and originality to classic dresses and tunics. Of particular note is the interweaving of knits on several pieces, reminiscent of the sailor’s knot.
The stripe is present, but not content with horizontality. On the contrary, it follows the contours of the silhouette, sometimes covering simple sleeves and recalling boat ropes. The rope is also present as an ornament, a sort of nod to the world of the sea, but remains black for added sophistication.
Asymmetry is the order of the day, and is conducive to the designer’s popular mix of materials. Chunky zippers add to the compartmentalized feel of some pieces. Wave effects on some zippered jackets energize the approach of a woman resolutely active against all odds.
Knitwear isn’t the only material Luis Buchinho uses. Flannel structures jackets with pronounced shoulders and warms the sides of white pants. Lace adorns pants, while leather makes timid appearances on shoulders or sleeves. Crepe, skins and silk complete this play of materials, like so many invitations to travel. Fur is discreet.
The waist is emphasized and often finely belted. The silhouettes are long, the skirts long and the pants narrow, all accessorized with colored ankle boots or strappy boots, depending on the mood, reinforcing the idea of apparent yet chic casualness. When Luis Buchinho ventures into shorter pieces such as shorts, it’s always bare-legged that he imagines the woman for outfits to be favored for mid-season.
In terms of color palettes, a flamboyant red, quickly replaced by a convincing wine-red, awakens a classic palette of black and gray amidst white and royal blue. The combination of royal blue and chocolate remains most irresistible.
For Autumn Winter 2011-2012, Luis Buchinho imagines a free, relaxed young woman who loves natural materials and pure lines. Enthralled by the idea of travel, she doesn’t hesitate to take to the road in all simplicity.
Photo credits: with the courtesy of L’Appart PR
Marie-Odile Radom
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