A runway is not always enough to tell the story of a collection. On 17 September, in London’s Regent Quarter, ANCIELA chose instead to bring together installation, performance and raw material to give shape to SS27 x Roots, a collection that takes the mother-daughter relationship as the starting point for a broader reflection on our relationship with the planet.
A presentation conceived as a complete experience
The London sustainable fashion label, supported by The Mills Fabrica and Endurance Land, chose London Fashion Week to unveil its spring-summer 2027 collection in a resolutely multidisciplinary form. Fashion, material innovation, installation and live performance came together to create a moment in which guests were not merely spectators, but invited to interact with the collection and the ideas that underpin it.
The mother, the daughter, and the Earth
The common thread of SS27 comes down to one image: the relationship between a mother and her daughter, shaped by care, protection and the transmission of knowledge, but also capable of carrying within it complexity, tension, sometimes trauma. ANCIELA takes it up as a metaphor for our bond with Mother Earth, questioning how fashion can contribute to answering environmental challenges. The collection follows a temporal thread between past, present and future, asking what can be learned from history, how to respond to the issues of the present, and what must be built for a more resilient future. This reflection translates concretely into an adaptive approach to tailoring: adjustable panels and detachable sleeves allow the pieces to be transformed, while layers intertwine, knot and fasten around the body, following movement and body shapes.
Materials as a story in themselves
The collection assembles vintage silk donated by the artist Allegra Hicks, tailoring wool recovered by Orsola de Castro, and deadstock cottons combined with certified Tencel and recycled cotton. It also introduces next-generation materials arising from collaborations with innovators: AlgaFila, a fibre produced from algae extract, air and nanotechnology, is used in the knits and quilted pieces for its lightness and insulating power. The accessories, for their part, use Savigne, developed by Planet of the Grapes, an alternative to animal leather made from pressed grape skins, stems and seeds left over from winemaking, sourced directly from organic and biodynamic vineyards in Provence. The abstract fern motifs that run through the collection, inspired by the layered darkness of the jungle, are obtained with a black bio-based pigment developed by Octarine, a synthetic biology platform dedicated to low-impact solutions inspired by living things.
When the runway extends into performance
Beyond the catwalk, guests were able to discover an installation devoted to ANCIELA’s collaborations with its material partners, before attending a live performance by the filmmaker Marie Lanna alongside the artist Luzmira Zerpa. Divided into three acts, the performance explores ancestry, connection, transformation and regeneration, inviting the audience to contribute to collective pieces rather than simply watch. An approach consistent with the history of the brand, which since its founding has multiplied installations, augmented-reality experiences, performances, workshops and round tables intended to foster a more conscious dialogue between designers, consumers and the fashion industry.
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