For Spring-Summer 2027, Tory Burch claims the eclecticism of the collector over the unity of the wardrobe planned in advance. A collection that layers materials and stories, between American pragmatism and handmade ornament.
A sculpted garden as setting
The show was held in the Sunken Garden designed by Isamu Noguchi, a setting already shaped by work with stone and void before the first garment appeared. The soundtrack, composed by Wladimir Schall, drew on disparate registers — “Bad Moon Rising” by The Reels, “The Perfect Girl” by Mareux, “In Rhythm – Extended” by Scream and Dance, “Total Control” by The Motels — as fragments assembled rather than a continuous thread. A way, already, of announcing the spirit of the collection: a deliberate stacking rather than a single line.
The garment as collector’s object
“Opulent femininity meets American pragmatism, seen through the collector’s eye”, sums up Tory Burch about this season, which she describes as an exploration of how women put things together — seeking at once the beauty, the utility and the humour of the act of getting dressed. This psychology of accumulation can be read in the silhouettes: sporty knits, skirts low on the hip, drawstring trousers, shirts with patch pockets, serving as a canvas for a rich palette and ornamental details. Opera coats are cut with the ease of a trench, while tailored jackets are slightly off-axis.
As for materials, the exploration focuses on texture and layering: wools with a masculine message lightened with silk, paper cotton dyed and washed tie-and-dye style, “wallpaper”-pattern jacquards lined with contrasting silk and cut threads, terry cloth reinterpreted as chenille, crêpe de Chine glazed until it achieves a liquid drape. The optimistic palette combines coral, turquoise, violet, mint, vermilion and butter yellow with deep browns and cool neutrals.
The hand, claimed
Ornament, this season, does not hide: metallic embroideries, flocked “pie-crust” cardigans, polka-dot threads, hand-painted feathers knotted into scarves or pompoms. The Handwoven Basket Tote continues a partnership already under way with the Indian artisans of Marasim, offered in new colours and hand-woven patterns. On the feet, open pumps and Venetian-style mules wrap the leather like drapery; leather cords are hand-braided to form slingback sandals, and on some models the hand-painted sole extends in a spiral around the heel.
A knot, a story
On the day of the show, the House also unveiled the Bunny Knot collection, available immediately on ToryBurch.com and in boutiques. The Bunny Knot shoulder bag is quilted with small knots placed by hand, one by one, at a perfect right angle — an abstract interpretation of the Double T that makes manual repetition its signature. The motif originates in an armchair cushion discovered by Tory Burch in the home of horticulturist and philanthropist Bunny Mellon in Antigua: a domestic detail that became, by transposition, a leather-goods gesture.
Jewellery, frames and a sporty nod
The pearl necklace, a classic of the House, is reinvented in stacked resin pearls, knotted nylon and articulated brass spheres that open to reveal a stone at their centre. The sunglasses, for their part, borrow from the sports wardrobe: metal “speed” frames, repurposed protective eyewear. On the feet again, some sandals are covered with mother-of-pearl, pearls and fake shark teeth, while other open-toe pumps draw on the drape of fabric on the body.
Detail
Bunny Knot Shoulder Bag — leather quilted with hand-placed knots, at a perfect right angle.
Abstract interpretation of the Double T.
Source of inspiration: an armchair cushion discovered by Tory Burch in Bunny Mellon’s home in Antigua.
Between Noguchi’s garden, the Marasim artisans and the Antigua cushion, the collection embraces a fragmented genealogy — that of a wardrobe that claims its sources rather than erasing them. It remains to be seen whether this aesthetic of controlled accumulation establishes itself as the House’s lasting grammar, or as the parenthesis of a season that, in any case, sided with the handmade gesture.
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