At the Salon Proust, the Ritz Paris reimagines teatime

by Pascal Iakovou
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Starting September 1, 2026, Olivier Lainé will introduce a tea time at the Salon Proust, conceived as a miniature French-style lunch.
The concept isn’t just about indulgence—it touches on how a luxury hotel revives its own tradition.
Blending savory and sweet elements with memories of 1898, the Ritz Paris transforms tea time into an exercise in passing on tradition.

At the Ritz Paris, tea time isn’t just another item on the menu. It’s a tradition. Ever since the hotel opened in 1898, five o’clock tea has been a signature ritual—a moment so deeply ingrained that it has endured through the decades. In 2026, Olivier Lainé, the new Pastry Chef at the Ritz Paris, will present a new take on this tradition starting September 1 at the Salon Proust.

This concept is interesting because it doesn’t simply reenact the English tradition of tea time. Instead, it shifts the focus to the French art of the afternoon meal, creating a three-part experience where savory and sweet elements interact. This structure lends the ritual a new depth: the moment is no longer solely about sweets, but rather one of progression—almost like a condensed menu.

The appetizer course features three savory creations. A salmon tartlet, enhanced with horseradish and a yuzu condiment, kicks off the tasting. Next comes a lobster roll made with French toast, whose tender texture comes from a lobster bisque that has been slowly simmered. A vegetable sauce made from roasted seasonal vegetables is served with soft focaccia, in a deliberately French touch.

The sweet-and-savory combination takes the form of a trompe-l’œil: a reimagined burrata served on a lemon shortbread, with brunoise of poached pear and a light balsamic vinaigrette. This centerpiece speaks volumes about Olivier Lainé’s style: classic precision, yet shifted by the interplay of textures and anticipation.

The “Le Temps Sucré” collection then unfolds with a series of more personal creations. A buckwheat baba with kiwi and fresh herbs pays homage to the chef’s native Brittany. A sunflower-shaped pastry combines an Earl Grey tea and cardamom mousse with choux pastry and lemon-bergamot cream. A pastry created by Head Baker Fabien Morelet reimagines croissant dough in a pastry form, topped with quince confit or seasonal fruit. The all-chocolate charlotte concludes the tasting on a more straightforward note.

Perhaps the most telling detail is the take-home creation: a dark chocolate shell encasing a praline made from toasted country bread. The Ritz extends the ritual beyond its walls without losing its essence. The treat becomes a souvenir, but also a final taste experience.

Priced at 125 euros per person, including a glass of brut champagne or a non-alcoholic sparkling beverage and a hot drink, this tea time will be served daily from 1:00 p.m. to 5:00 p.m. Its success will depend on its ability to strike a balance: not turning the Salon Proust into a museum, not trivializing tea time, but bringing this heritage to life.

Cette publication est également disponible en : Français (French)

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