Ludovic Winterstan stands out from the rest of this Parisian haute couture week – and in a good way. For his first collection, the young designer chose to work around one hue: black. Against all odds, it’s always different. Depending on materials, light, shine, transparency and opacity, the black of the dresses in this collection is by no means a monotonous monochrome. It’s an intelligent choice to focus on the different formulas of black, in the manner of Pierre Soulages – of course – but we could also evoke Yves Klein’s approach to blue. The eye then pays fresh attention to the cut-outs, shapes and textures of each model, redistinguishing the identity and uniqueness of each piece. The shadows are illuminated.
Women whose skin seems to be made of this metallic black, it’s a futuristic allure, a kind of science-fiction cyborg, but a cyborg dressed in lace, embroidered materials and sequins. Masked, the models disappear behind the dresses. As if there were no longer any humans, only shades of black. Works in which the body is merely the vehicle?
Ludovic Winterstan offers us more than haute couture clothing: it’s a reflection on the place of clothing in our identity construction. A reflection on the mass reproduction of so-called flagship items, distributed on a massive scale, so that we end up – in spite of ourselves – wearing the same T-shirts. Without realizing it, we’re wearing uniforms…
Ludovic Winterstan has created a collection with a futuristic flair that reflects current events more than ever, thanks to his choice of materials, research into cut-outs and exacting couture standards.
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