Spring-Summer 2014 Couture Collection
There are the narrow shoulders, the pronounced waist, the cut to the chord. There’s skin-deep femininity, the naked flesh revealed by a décolleté, the volume of a trapeze skirt as light as a breath. Whatever the reminiscences of a fifties decade or the sensations of a Napa Valley escapade, the colors of a Californian season subtly imprint this Parisian couture freed from any vintage temptation.
Perched on her kitten-heels, Didit Hediprasetyo’s daughter blends into this sensitive, sensual mood rather than overtly sexy. Sleek in a chic jumpsuit featuring a lambskin bib and pants in Prince-de-Galles, pied-de-coq and Songket (traditional hand-woven Indonesian brocade), she wraps herself in a fleece and leather bomber embroidered with leaves and vine shoots. Luxury permeates even sportswear inspiration, while couture craftsmanship yields nothing to the everyday, and masculine fabrics give doggedness to tailored pants that take in the waist and barely round out the
hip with a draped pleat.
The spirit of Old Hollywood can be seen in the draped décolletés of a cardigan in supple leather, or in the body-covering embroidered fleece dress. Then there’s the A-line of a feminine dress in crinoline-style fleece, whose asymmetrical bib mixes leather in a construction game dear to the couturier. And the beauty of a never-ending dress in vanilla leather with a corset-like waistband exacerbates its
modernity.
Earthy colors, straw silk, cream leather and sun-kissed wool are followed by the purity of long, empire-waisted mermaid dresses, whose immaculate fabric is outlined by sublime broderies anglaises, ornamental vines, bunches of grapes and delicate vine leaves, created by the House of Lesage, like an infinitely couture signature.
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