58 looks for a collection worthy of a modern princess. That’s what Raf Simons offered us last Saturday at the Dior Cruise fashion show in Monaco. A location that turns out not to be all that insignificant. After all, the crowned heads of Monaco were part of the audience.
We already knew that Raf Simons was the creative director of Dior for couture and women’s ready-to-wear. The Cruise show only confirmed his hegemony and justified (if proof were needed) his position. A capsule collection of trends, the designer knows how to appropriate what’s fashionable and make it timeless, just like the house.
Metallics, transparency, knits and embroideries, Raf Simons injects a dose of modernity without overdoing it for the eternally classic brand. A child of the countryside and close to nature, Raf Simons’ approach is in many ways very similar to that of Mr. Christian Dior. That’s why his creations are in tune with the spirit of the brand.
Tributes and subtle nods are made by the designer who was originally destined for industrial design. Here, the famous shape of the flared skirt is incorporated into the blazers that make up the two-piece suits, enhancing the silhouette.
Of course, this is a graphic collection in which every seam and every detail serves a visually pleasing purpose. With strong color blocking complementing the mix of materials and collar details (reminiscent of those in his menswear collection for his own label), Raf Simons dares to mix genres, creating asymmetrical garments far removed from the polished idea we might have of the House of Dior. A refreshing dose of modernism.
Where it surprises most is in its use of so many transparencies, revealing sheath panties that become an integral part of the outfit.
Raf Simons takes us into a highly graphic universe where we can sense his artistic origins in design. He creates and dares, but without shocking, except for his exacerbated romanticism.
Photographs courtesy of the House of Dior
Mary Yasmine Arrouche
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