The Westin Hotel was the venue for Chinese designer Masha Ma’s first show in Paris. Sandwiched between two “big shows” (Miu Miu and Elie Saab, to name but two) and at lunchtime, the designer didn’t have the best omens for a first presentation. Nevertheless, the collection shown on the catwalk, inspired by Oscar Wilde’s story “The Nightingale and the Rose”, more than justified its presence on the official schedule.
Zips were in the spotlight during the show, omnipresent and a kind of armature for the silhouette, shaping and accompanying movement. The geometries were highly complex, with lots of pleating and draping on materials that don’t lend themselves to it at first glance (leather, in particular), the ensemble surprisingly reminiscent of Marchesa in terms of technique. Colors remain in the same tones we’ve already seen this season: electric blue, white, black, dark beige…
The collar is consistently worn high when not adorned with fur. The designer has chosen to explore several avenues, sometimes attempting rock/gothic looks and others much more feminine. She adorns her garments with studs as well as jewels (I’m reminded of a magnificent white coat whose back was studded with stones). She also plays with superimpositions of different materials and mixes of textures (quilted/leather, lamé/leather or fur).
The result is a futuristic yet feminine and sophisticated look. For me, this show was like a synthesis of this fashion week, where we saw a condensed version of the season’s hits: fur, special attention to detail, ankle-length garments, feathers and high-dose white. The Masha Ma woman is a veritable princess from the future, whose sophistication is matched only by the beauty of the cuts and materials she wears.
Manteau à zips serti de pierres
Plissés et look rock
Mélange de matière, look rock
Superpositions
Col en fourrure, zips, géométries complexes
Mary Yasmine Arrouche
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