His previous Spring Summer collection celebrated the romantic yet mysterious woman at the Temple de l’Oratoire. For Spring Summer 2012, designer Harry Halim takes inspiration from the German fairy tale Faust to offer a wild, graphic and dark feminine vision set to apocalyptic music in the basement of the Maison Des Métallos.
Black has recently become his clothing signature, offering season after season of monochrome collections barely disturbed by a few icy touches of color. Once again, black takes center stage, becoming the new weapon of seduction for the Indonesian-born designer’s neo-amazons, ready to savor a life of epicurean pleasures.
Exploring the dark side of women and revealing a provocative sensuality, he fashions a wardrobe in his own image, made of leather that he sometimes combines with softer materials such as silk, jersey or crepe wool.
A modern-day warrior, the HarryHalim woman, perched on creepers with imposing soles, dares to be transparent, revealing more than she covers her body with sharp cuts that multiply bangs and other loose sections of clothing, favoring deep necklines, ultra-smooth hair and black mouths. Leather is worked and destructured in a thousand ways, draping the body.
The Indonesian designer skilfully assembles pieces in an interesting game of hide-and-seek, revealing while covering the bodies of his muses, destructuring the silhouette to make it almost spectral. Mesh becomes fishnet and crochet, simultaneously concealing and revealing the bosom. But Harry Halim loves the unexpected, never completely finishing his work in knitwear.
Capes accompany shorts and very short skirts. Tight-fitting black leather pants cover the thighs before flaring out to the feet. Jackets and trench coats are as asymmetrical as ever.
Whether gothic or darkly romantic, the HarryHalim woman is a dark, wild seductress, a little rock’n’roll but with an exaggerated femininity, dressed all in black, ready to catch her prey in her mesh nets to savor some epicurean pleasures.
Marie-Odile Radom
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