The strength of haute-couture lies not only in the quality of its designers, but also in the multitude of small craftsmen who create and manufacture the marvelous and the unique. This unparalleled know-how is the strength of fashion and, beyond that, of French Haute-Couture. Whether it’s clothing, jewelry or simply accessories, so many different trades are involved, and they work wonders.
Façade de l'immeuble
Des bobines...
The Sentier district of Paris is not only home to wholesalers, but also to a wealth of treasures to be found along its narrow streets. In the narrow streets, you’ll still find the workshops of artisans who are passionate about their craft. At 5 rue d’Uzès, for example, a plaque on the door of a Gustave Eiffel-era stone and wrought-iron building reads“Edgar Hamon parurier“. Hidden from view, some twenty craftsmen put all their know-how at the service of the most prestigious fashion houses, fashioning accessories by hand, sometimes using ancient techniques. The Maison’s archives are brimming with the most prestigious brand names. Reserved for professionals, a magnificent showroom housing the House’s archives would easily compete with the Musée Galliera, as it is brimming with unsuspected treasures and bears witness to a great French tradition of excellence.
Atelier partie métal
Contrôle des pièces avant envoi
These craftsmen have to adapt to any order, and so cover a wide range of specialties: finishing a belt, sewing the lining of a bag, or inserting crystals into the cells of a brooch hold no secrets for them. Some of these “little hands” are trainees from fashion design schools or more specialized schools such as the prestigious École Boulle , whose excellence is recognized worldwide. Each step is meticulously executed in the 850 m² workshop: here, leather is processed for bags and belts, while there, metal elements (bag clasps, belt buckles, brooch or earring structures) are fashioned with incredible meticulousness. A studio allows the designers to think about future creations, while in the basement the pieces are checked for quality before being sent out.
Chaînes
Gemmes divers et variées
Edgar Hamon is currently the only high-end parurier in Paris to work in metal and leather, as well as resin and fabric. The company, founded by Edgard Hamon in 1919, produced boot and gaiter buttons for the houses of the “Golden Age of Haute Couture”: Chanel, Lanvin, Grès, Fath, Balenciaga, Balmain, Dior… This workshop even produced the famous bridles worn by Mistinguette. In the 50’s, metal buttons were added for these famous fashion houses. In 1968, when Yves Saint-Laurent created his own House, a collaboration was established that would last 35 years. That same year, another Couture great, Hubert de Givenchy, became an Edgard Hamon customer. The parurier then turned his attention to belts, which immediately won unanimous acclaim for their unparalleled quality of finish. In 1999, the company was sold, along with Yves Saint-Laurent, to the Gucci Group, which was considering closing the Edgard Hamon workshop for purely financial reasons.
It was then that Jean Bergeron – former deputy chairman of the Comité Colbert and an ardent defender of French cultural heritage – bought Edgard Hamon from the Italians, perpetuating the Comité’s ideas and not letting one of the last authentic players in the global image of Paris du Luxe die. He passed on his energy to the company and entrusted Carole Lamotte with its management. His intuition was right: the atelier has found a new lease of life. For almost a century, the savoir-faire of Maison Edgard Hamon was never revealed outside the restricted circle of Luxury Houses. In March 2010, the atelier decided to share its expertise with the general public and launched its own line of bags, belts and jewelry, humbly named“A l’Atelier” and available exclusively on its website http://www.alatelier-style.fr, customizable to each customer’s taste.
Sac Adelaîde violet lamé et vieil argent
Sac Victoria tissu Cardiff et cuir
This first collection comprises two bag models: the ” Victoria” in woven straw for summer and tweed for winter, and the“Adélaïde” in two-tone leather, with matching pouches and make-up bags, plus a two-tone, reversible belt. Added to this are jewelry pieces in sterling silver and cowhide or silk satin, bracelets in rush or braided, a ring model, earrings, a necklace, a choker, a long necklace and a key ring. A whole range of chic yet timeless accessories for the contemporary woman, and soon for the man, as the reversible belt is very popular, a men’s model will be offered. The models have been designed by Edgard Hamon’s design office, and are created by the workshop. The customer chooses the materials and colors she wants from the sample ranges presented on the site. The atelier then takes over and completes the order in 4 to 6 weeks.
Ras du coup Taupe
Bague Rubis
The result: a totally personalized order for a unique model made according to Haute-Couture criteria and entirely French know-how. This initiative is the finest example of the need to preserve the workshops that make Haute-Couture great, as Jean Bergeron says, “...the day Haute Couture artisans leave, Paris will no longer be Paris“… But the most beautiful conclusion when we think of this savoir-faire is a phrase from Carole Lamotte:“It’s in the detail that luxury lies“. And she’s right, to say the least.
Ceinture Galet Lamé Rubis
Grand Bracelet rond noir
Marie-Odile Radom
Cette publication est également disponible en : Français (French)
