If there is a designer emblematic of the English punk spirit, it is without doubt the very British and talented Vivienne Westwood, whose collections are always colorful and mix creativity, punk spirit and tradition.
It is on the occasion of the first Paris Fashion Days that the British designer presents her women’s collection for Spring-Summer 2011 Anglomania, born from her collaboration with the jeans brand Lee. The opportunity for us to have a delicious appetizer before the start of the Haute-Couture shows, and for the designer to share with us her love of fashion and her avant-garde spirit.
Vivienne Westwood, who was one of the first to impose punk fashion in the early 1980s, pays tribute to bikers and other rockers in a young collection, sparkling between British tradition and creativity. It is aimed at young, non-conformist, feminine women who like to please with a touch of originality and humor.
Beginning with classic-looking models accessorized with small hats and hair creped to the extreme, the designer takes up the codes of the trench coat so dear to the Anglo-Saxons while adding her own touch. The waist cinching, she offers it very low cut, without buttons with gathers on the sleeves. The white blouses reveal a luscious neckline, this new collection also emphasizes the plunging necklines, highlighting and emphasizing the chest.
The pencil skirt makes its appearance, jackets are worn finely belted. Dresses with a Blue Tiger Print pattern, or more striking in red gingham, are worn corseted marking the waist and giving a retro look to the silhouette, or slightly accented by a thin belt. Sleeveless dresses are reinvented in prints between madras and tartan or in faux marble print, which can also be found in asymmetrical tunic or top. Asymmetry and small details are legion as for this bondage shorts multi-blooded, reissue of the punk years that it makes more chic. The shapes of the different pieces are different from traditional patterns to offer a more contemporary chic.
The colors are neutral. Beige, taupe, navy, black, pink and white follow one another but the blood red makes a brilliant appearance in fatal dress or skirt see in jeans.
As part of her collaboration with the jeans brand LEE, Vivienne Westwood takes the codes of punk fashion for a woman resolutely active and full of humor. Badges, crests and patches are plentiful on fitted jackets and sleeveless vests. The legging is worn in flesh color and hole but with ghillies. The jeans are silk-screened with metallic prints or even nicely smeared with paint stains, torn and then repaired with patches for a very realistic worn look. The indigo is classic and the wash is vintage always in this idea of a jean that has had several lives. The new jeans fit the curves and legs thanks to a very well placed seam or become baggy chic for a more urban woman.
Once again, Vivienne Westwood has succeeded in reconciling tradition and modernity in a collection for a young, non-conformist but not without a sense of humor. In the image of this great lady…
Marie-Odile Radom
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