The Jil Sander designer presented her spring-summer 2017 men’s collection in Milan.
This queen of minimalist, luxurious aesthetics presented us with a fashion show faithful to her unmistakable concept of clothing. Some thirty models in a refined, smooth style, with perfect architecture, straight lines and impeccable symmetry. The impression is one of extreme fluidity, elegant comfort, simple and sophisticated at the same time. The colors are sober, rather dark even, for a spring collection, with natural tones dominating: a range of blues from very dark to an almost white pastel blue, gray, ivory white, light beige with floral shades in an almost black brown, a jacket in bright orange leather illuminates this collection.
The cuts are rigorous, and the classics of the men’s wardrobe are reworked: long city coats, suits, shirts, pants, jackets, pyjama-style ensembles. Silhouettes are loose, straight and supple. Jackets and coats feature broad, sloping shoulders, with minimal buttoning and no decorative additions, pockets or button plackets.
Jil Sander opts for the slightly high round collar, with concealed buttoning. The boldness of Jil Sander’s style is echoed in a silhouette of tone-on-tone layering. Pants are worn short above the ankle, highlighting the perfectly elegant shoes coordinated with the garment colors. The 40’s-inspired long gabardine waistband and suits in fine vertical stripes, reminiscent of the famous tennis stripe, are particularly noteworthy.
Knit sweaters with wide, flat, round collars are worn under a jacket and tucked into the waistband of pants for even more elegance. Here, pajamas become a chic, casual city ensemble. The simplicity of the cut, the perfect symmetry of the garment, the total absence of decorative elements, sublimate the materials that become the essential luxury of this resolutely modern and absolutely elegant collection.
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