The Haute Couture Autumn-Winter 2023/24 collection designed by Virginie Viard is a blend of contrasts and balance, highlighting the sensitivity and audacity of a Parisian woman. Her singular, often indefinable charm lies in her ability to subvert convention and unite what we usually prefer to separate, classify and hierarchize.
“Playing with oppositions and contrasts, nonchalance and elegance, means standing on a line between strength and softness, which, at CHANEL, we call allure,” explains Virginie Viard.
What the Parisienne wears, reads or thinks, as well as her attitude to life, is closely scrutinized and studied. All over the world, whether by opposition or imitation, her model inspires others. Its allure travels through cinema, literature and music, reinventing itself from collection to collection. In this collection, the assembly of tweeds, silk chiffons, organzas and inlaid lace, as well as the composition of floral and graphic motifs, testify to the effervescence of a rich and feminine creative universe.
“If we’re in Paris,” she adds, “this time we’re in Paris itself, on the quays. The street and the colorful cobblestones call for both sophistication and simplicity.” To imagine a Haute Couture show on the banks of the Seine, with Vanessa Paradis as the embodiment of Parisian allure, is to travel through a world of images and emotions, permanence and beauty.
The Parisian river, symbol of the creative energy that runs through the city, at once romantic and tumultuous, open to the world, links the high points of art history. The fruit basket, a motif dear to pictorial art, echoes the wicker basket emblematic of the Parisienne of the 70s, while delicate flowers and wild fruits such as wild strawberries and blackberries pop up in the embroidery.
The collection features long, masculine-inspired overcoats, light blouses belted over flat-pleated gold tweed skirts, precious tank tops, tennis-striped pants and men’s vests, as well as an infinitely light long black chiffon dress, painted glasses and two-tone baby shoes. The collection plays with the CHANEL codes, mixing rigor and asymmetry, discreet colors and bright shades, assurance and discretion.
“Conveying emotions, bringing together elements that were not meant to be together, doing things her own way, dreaming, quite simply,” is what Virginie Viard aims to achieve with this collection.
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