Neil Barrett is one of my favorite designers when it comes to menswear. But to limit ourselves to his creations for men would be to greatly neglect the English designer’s knowledge. Indeed, at his presentation for the autumn/winter 2013 season, it was women’s fashion that was in the spotlight (even if some pieces from the men’s collection were also present for those who didn’t get a chance to see them in Milan).
Halfway between a presentation and a catwalk show (garments on racks and models), the collection we are shown emphasizes clean geometric shapes and a mix of materials.
The link between the men’s and women’s collections is strong, which explains why the designer chose to present both. There are correspondences in terms of prints (the monochrome printing on foal is precise, a sign of Neil Barrett’s quality and attention to detail), but also numerous winks (the cap is next season’s hat for both men and women).
The leather, strongly present at Neil Barrett due to his penchant for mixing materials, is quilted in the shape of an arrowhead, a change from the usual checkered quilting.
The silhouettes are androgynous, of course, but some pieces stand out for the incredible femininity they exude, I’m thinking here in particular of the white ensembles or the multi-material miniskirts.
The colors are modest and unostentatious, as Neil Barrette’s focus is on cut and finish: navy blue, black, camel and gray are worked to sculpt and redefine the silhouette (for example, the black inserts on the hips to slim the waist).
Photos by Samantha Rakotoson (Nikon D800)
Mary Yasmine Arrouche
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