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Walter van Beirendonck is known for the eccentricity of his creations, which are thus atypical and spectacular. However, this season at Walter Van Beirendonck, it’s another facet that the designer has chosen to express. As a result, we found pieces that were slightly more sober than what the designer had accustomed us to (notably for the Spring Summer 2013 collection).
Reinterpreting the codes of men’s clothing, the designer drew his inspiration from women’s fashion. Walter Van Beirendonck’s ability to appropriate feminine forms while preserving a masculine allure was a risky gamble that the designer took up with flying colors.
The shoes remain faithful to the house’s codes, and come in a myriad of colors. With heels, but without being pumps, they are the right compromise between women’s and men’s shoes. Quilted fabrics were very much in evidence in this collection, integrating with suits and pants. Sequins, patchwork, shades of pink: all these elements inevitably remind us of women’s fashion, but the silhouettes remain virile (with shades oriented towards nature – khaki, navy blue, ochre, brown) and the garments are versatile, sometimes asymmetrical, sometimes versatile.
And therein lies the genius of the Belgian designer: by showing us a collection that exemplifies his ability to understand trends and make them his own by creating his own codes, Walter Van Beirendonck has proven his talent, making him one of the leading designers of menswear week.
Mary Yasmine Arrouche
Photographs: Samantha Rakotoson
Cette publication est également disponible en : Français (French)
