In the autumn, when I wrote this article about the exceptional spa hotel, I had only one desire: to take off for Italy to enjoy winter in the Dolomites. So, because I needed to recharge my batteries, I gave in to the call of the mountains and headed off to the Alpina in early December 2012, and I did just fine.
Landing in Verona, after a short flight of around 1h45 from Paris, we realize that we’re actually quite close to our neighbors’ Alps, which we don’t often think about.
When a charming young man, Alex, takes us at high speed in a shuttle bus on the freeway, then climbs to the Alpe di Siusi(Europe’s highest mountain pasture at 1860 meters), we appreciate that he knows the way, as it takes a good two hours to get there.
And when you arrive at your destination, with blue skies, fresh snow and a hotel ablaze with noble materials, the stone facades gleaming in the sun, you’re immediately under the spell of theAlpina Dolomites Lodge & Spa, this establishment in the heart of a natural, unspoilt, albeit isolated, environment.
Our hosts are the Bernardi family, who work as a family in this prestigious hotel. They have also run the Gardena hotel, relais & châteaux in the valley at Ortisei (which I’ll tell you about here soon) for generations.
It was Hugo, the eldest son, who took the initiative to launch this second hotel project when one of the last plots of land on the Alpe di Siusi was put up for sale in 2009. So, in addition to the rehabilitated main building, they imagined the Chalet Alpina(below) like a flying saucer, offering 4 large 360° suites and a high-end self-service restaurant on the first floor.
It’s shaping up well, very well indeed: the smells of open fires and mulled wine mingle with those of essential oils.
The Hotel Alpina is renowned for its “in-house” spa, where guests come to recharge their batteries, relax and be pampered by a team of 10 therapists.
This establishment, which opened 2 years ago, has opted for spaciousness (the 56 rooms and suites are generously sized, with a minimum of 50 m²) and luxury, but not ostentatious luxury, as it’s all about the details, sobriety and excellent furnishings.
On the program: tranquillity, awakening the senses with a breathtaking view of the Sasso Lungo and Sasso Piato massifs, while taking care of your body, in sport or relaxation mode, and good tasting.
The ski slopes are directly accessible from the ski-room, where you can borrow new equipment and store it in your heated locker. In the early morning, what could be more pleasant than putting on warm boots, taking a few steps and skiing directly into a vast, superbly snow-covered and sunny ski area?
Several times a week, Guildo the guide (no pun intended here 🙂 ) will take you skiing around the Sella massif, on a route called ” sella ronda “. It takes about a day to get there, but it’s well worth the detour.
UNESCO has made no mistake: the Dolomites, a World Heritage site, boast a generous natural environment, 18 peaks over 3,000 meters, breathtaking panoramas and some 2,000 km of trails to enjoy.
For those who prefer the cocooning option, the Spa offers signature treatments with goat’s milk, honey and hay. Alpina Dolomites has even developed its own range of local and natural products, which you can find exclusively on site.
For my part, I succumbed to two relaxing massages, one withGentian essential oil and the other with goat’s milk, whose moisturizing powers are well known.
I’ll admit that the first seduced me more for the aromas that filled the cabin, while the second was a radical blessing for the body, thanks to a technique impeccably mastered by the masseur.
At €70 for a 50-minute treatment in exceptional conditions, you shouldn’t hesitate to treat yourself!
Hotel guests have free access to the Spa area, which is reserved for them. There’sa large bathing area with saunas and hammams (especially the one with Dead Sea salt vapors), 2 relaxation rooms, one with waterbeds(photo above) and the other with a breathtaking view of the Sciliar massif. We could spend hours here, I assure you.
This wellness area offers two sublime pools. The outdoor pool, heated all year round, is reminiscent of a small mountain lake: I recommend a dip in the evening, as the air and water temperatures collide to create an atmosphere of powerful relaxation. As for the indoor infinity pool, it’s the ideal place to relax after skiing; deckchairs, a fireplace and soft lighting will fill you with serenity.
In all these areas, delicate classical music will awaken your last sense of hearing. It’s worth noting that the spa’s German-speaking clientele are accustomed to using the facilities without bathing suits… it’s a cultural thing, but you’ll get used to it.
But did I ever tell you about the meals served at the Alpina? Because a stay in a 5-star hotel is synonymous with fine food and impeccable service.
There are two dining areas to choose from: the Mountain restaurant and the “stuben”, which are traditional, wood-panelled dining rooms, warm and inviting for family dinners where laughter and conviviality are the order of the day.
We opted for the more classic restaurant, with its contemporary design and breathtakingly luminous panorama (especially at breakfast).
On the menu, lots of good regional produce (game or vegetables, roots), suggestions for nutritional, vegetarian, “vital” or dietetic dishes, and wines marvelously matched by the establishment’s sommelier. Sometimes very copious, and although I’m a gourmet, I couldn’t get through some of the 5-course menus, but that’s something you can’t complain about…
At the end of the evening, healthily tired by the fresh air, the water and the trampled snow, I curl up in one of the living room’s cosy armchairs. The fireplace radiates light and warmth. A mulled wine or “Hugo” cocktail with elderberry syrup is the perfect way to round off this intense day.
The staff are very attentive and thoughtful, yet discreet. At snack time, for example, they serve cakes such as Apfel-studel(apple cake) from the bar, a perfect accompaniment to the tea break you need to hydrate after treatments or physical exertion.
23h. My room awaits. With a few pleasant surprises. A carafe of fresh water from the nearby spring, some fresh fruit, a candle to complete the welcoming atmosphere; it’s so peaceful. There’s no sound from inside or outside. It’s going to be a gentle night.
Among the services that add a real plus to this beautiful space of rest: a personal radio with several stations, individual Wifi, soft lights, a pillow menu, a terrace overlooking the snow-capped mountains, a royal bathroom with bath and shower. And the list goes on, because there has to be some mystery left when you move in to the Alpina.
I don’t want to go back to Paris or France. L’Alpe di Siusi, South Tyrol, in the magnificent Dolomite region, had me spellbound. My only comment is on the decor, which is sober and natural: a few more touches of color would brighten things up wonderfully.
AtAlpina Dolomites Gardena Health Lodge & Spa, serenity becomes an essential art of living.
Of course, the charm of the place and the hospitality of the staff have a lot to do with it. But I’m running out of time. I’d like to stay longer, to continue living, sleeping, dreaming, breathing, admiring these landscapes, these sunrises and sunsets.
It’s like being at home, only better… sometimes you just have to stop time. It’s only a postponement: I’ll be back at the Alpina Dolomites Hotel & Spa, undoubtedly the most beautiful place I know for the lover of skiing and well-being that I am.
One thing I’m sure of is that you won’t go to the Alpina by chance. And if you’re lucky enough to get there, there’s only one piece of advice: go in low season.
Jessica Gauzi
PS: because this is a magical place, I’ll let you enjoy a few more photos of the surroundings and interior design below – your opinions and comments are most welcome.
If you’ve made it this far, it’s time to book by calling +39 0471 79 60 04 or visiting [email protected]
Cette publication est également disponible en : Français (French)
