3.1 PHILLIP LIM
It was in the early morning heat of Thursday June 28, under the glass roof of the Palais de Tokyo’s main hall, that designer Phillip Lim’s fashion show took place. Numerous figures from the fashion world turned out to see the presentation of the American designer’s collection, despite the rather prohibitive 9:30 a.m. schedule. And the looks on show that day more than justified the effort.
Phillip Lim’s 3.1 Spring Summer collection for men draws its inspiration from the Baroque period and the culture of the Japanese in Brazil. The designer, known for his pared-down style, chose to interpret the blend of these two themes using safe paths whose execution was, to say the least, perfect.
White is inevitably present, but not in the majority as we’ve seen with others. Combined with black (when worn over a jacket) or arts deco motifs in rust on navy blue, it brings freshness, in dashes, throughout the collection, sometimes preventing certain outfits from becoming tacky total looks.
There are also verdigris, camel and different shades of blue (supported by denim pieces) and, unlike others, no trace of fluo (!).
The cuts, always very clean at Philipp Lim, were no exception. Beautiful asymmetrical shirts (the back longer than the front) fluttered as the models walked, emphasizing their gait, and the designer even dared to incorporate metallic appliqués, like a groove or a silver trail. An ingenious detail, to say the least.
Footwear: a huge melting pot of brown leather shoes, white boots and sandals, the latter two reminiscent of those worn by martial artists.
Special mention for all the laser-drilled micro leather pieces, including a beige jacket (which looks tie-dye in the light from above) using this technique. There were also a number of denim garments, both raw (jackets) and bleached (pants).
“What filled me, filled me completely. The only space left was inside my fists”. Such was the introductory sentence to next summer’s 3.1 Phillip Lim collection, which is a good summary of the designer’s intentions: to bring genres together without ever losing elegance or identity, paying homage to a range of cultures either directly by evoking them as an influence, or more subtly through the technique and palette so typical of Phillip Lim.
Mary Yasmine Arrouche
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