Black and white. Two colors and an opposition found in yin and yang, at once different and complementary.
From the set design, featuring a luminous wall against a black background, to the colors chosen for the silhouettes and the catwalk, black and white contrasts were everywhere for this first show of the season, inspired by the chess game – an allegory of life – on which white and black pieces clash.
For Fall Winter 2011-2012, designer Fatima Lopes presents an ultra-feminine Checkmate collection of graphic, almost exclusively two-color, asymmetrical cuts. The models, true modern warriors, wear a frank asymmetrical cut on straight hair pulled up into an unstructured high bun. The eyes are edged with kohl and the mouth is candy pink.
Black and white complement each other on white pieces delicately outlined in black, and vice versa, or clash in complete opposition, with highly futuristic optical effects even in accessories, such as this white leather sleeve covering black pumps.
Fur, thick wool and leather are the materials chosen by Fatima Lopes for silhouettes visibly inspired by the 60s, with an emphasis on layering, material mixes and close-fitting pieces.
The Portuguese designer confronts polka dots and stripes, contrasts shiny materials and matte finishes, and plays with lengths and tight-fitting second-skin pants, with a predominance of leather and a pronounced sarouel effect on certain pieces.
The collection is very graphic, with shoulders that are often highly structured or even gigantic. On many dresses and tunics, large sleeves are attached to the hips.
The jacket is reinterpreted as a short cape, a rigid bolero or a wide-open jacket with a big belt and oversized shoulders reminiscent of obi keikogi.
Fur delicately dresses deep necklines and can be worn belted as an immaculate white coat. Two-tone versions can be worn over a small bolero.
Despite the season, the Fatima Lopes woman never forgets her sexy side and deploys her weapons of massive seduction. High heels and highly slit dresses emphasize her graceful gait and tapered legs. She loves knee-length cigarette skirts and long black satin dresses with mottled transparency.
And as the ultimate note of hope, the designer departed from the two-color scheme with an emerald green piece signifying love and hope, bringing a touch of saving color to the collection.
For Fall Winter 2011-2012, designer Fatima Lopes presents a ready-to-wear collection for a contemporary, conquering woman who fully embraces her darker side, in perfect balance with her lighter side. She doesn’t have to choose, she remains whole and takes on both as a modern-day Amazon.
Photo credits: © Hervé Cortinat with the courtesy of L’Appart PR
Marie-Odile Radom
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