Home ModeFashion Week Jil Sander – FALL/WINTER 2018 MENSWEAR

Jil Sander – FALL/WINTER 2018 MENSWEAR

by pascal iakovou
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Paris, January 18, 2018

A positive human future. An approach focused on ideas of comfort and protection, while at the same time an emphasis on reducing to the most elemental, the most necessary. What is important to us that we would like to see developed further in the future? How can we improve? What is necessary, and, just as importantly, what is unnecessary? The point of departure for this collection was to look towards the future in a progressive, positive way, and create from a reductive approach. The result is a collection that displays a strong futuristic feel with a warm, human touch.

The silhouette is modern with a familiarity that at times is slightly twisted or has shrunken proportions. Layering creates asymmetrical forms giving depth and a thermal functioning to essential pieces. Generous outerwear shapes are refi­ned and controlled; down coats are soft and have a duvet feel wrapping the body in forms inspired by military bivouac sleeping bags; padded coats and shirts add lightness to volume; technical welding and bonding has been utilized on natural fabrics and leathers. A warm, human touch has been given to the clothes and a rawness and slight imperfection

is present through raw edge cutting and washed shrunken wool details. Hardware is kept to a minimum, looking to pre-technical sportswear as inspiration. Cotton cording, natural horn buttons with lacquered ­finishing, and brushed aluminium buttons are used throughout.

The collection, while forward-looking in inspiration, is created for the present. The lining construction on tailored pieces both supports the garment and gives the wearer an ease of movement created by horizontal cuts. Contrast stitching emphasizes this construction. Movement is also enhanced through cut out forms at the elbows and armholes on outerwear and shirts.

The color palette features soft, warm whites and natural cotton hues set against astral tones of green, grey, and beige. The colors seem to borrow elements from each other creating rich and balanced variations of different hues. Also present are black and the identically dark navy of Jil Sander.

Footwear and accessories take cues from the collection inspiration to complete the range. Bags are softened with padding or as a result of specific leather selections; oversized functional forms are in‑flatted to round corners; welded construction and details are utilized; traditional leather luggage is refreshed in color and hardware. A study in shape was the focus of footwear, especially the outsoles. Textured rubber overlays and skewed, angular forms create new propositions of shoe, sneaker, and boot silhouettes. Vulcanized construction is a featured technique whose imperfections reinforce a natural, human touch.

The fi­nal effect of the collection is that it is a demonstration of how modern technique, silhouette, and materials can be given an elevated refi­nement. This is not about technology in a futuristic sense, rather an idea that the future is inviting and even positive. The constant march forward can be both a progression as well as an indulgence.

LUCIE AND LUKE MEIER

Lucie Meier was born in Switzerland to an Austrian mother and a German father. After studying fashion marketing in Florence and fashion design in Paris, she joined the Louis Vuitton team under Marc Jacobs and, after 5 years, departed for Balenciaga and worked under the direction of Nicolas Ghesquière. She was later chosen by Raf Simons to join his team at Dior as Head Designer of Women’s Haute Couture and Ready-to-Wear collections. After Simons’ departure, she took the role of Co-Creative Director at Dior and led the development of 5 collections.

Luke Meier was born in Canada to an English mother and a Swiss father. He accomplished his studies in ­finance and international business at Georgetown University in Washington, DC, and he continued his studies in business policy at the Oxford University in the UK. He later moved to New York City where he attended FIT. He met James Jebbia, and subsequently worked for 8 years as Head Designer of Supreme in New York. Following his position at Supreme he co-founded the luxury menswear line OAMC that is now distributed in more than 100 of the best select stores in the world.

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