Home ModeFashion Week JIL SANDER – WOMEN AND MEN FALL/WINTER 2018 COLLECTION

JIL SANDER – WOMEN AND MEN FALL/WINTER 2018 COLLECTION

by pascal iakovou
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A Human Future

The thinking behind this season’s collection focused on the future and how necessary it is to maintain a level of humanity. A realization of the fact that the future is not far away. Time horizons for behavioral change are short and in some cases they have already been reached. We must begin to live in a different way. The admission of this reality is a truly modern approach that is necessary. The important aspect is to remain human as we change. In this spirit the collection focused on the intersection between futuristic shapes and details, and delicate aspects that are distinctly human. The feeling of comfort: the clothes were made to make the wearer feel good, feel safe, feel protected.

Hard lines are softened, hemlines are undulating and often asymmetrical, inner layers and linings add warmth. A cardigan feeling of sourrounding the body is important as many woven fabrics are made to emulate jersey’s stretchy, malleable properties. Shapes are wrapped around the body and fastened intuitively with simple closures; in other moments, precise hardware that echo astronaut suits are used in mixed aluminium and copper. Layered down shrug ‘pillows’ protect the wearer. Billowing forms are given softness and delicate construction.

The sense of familiarity is found within a futuristic language. The idea of bringing the familiar into the unknown, of being able to create a feeling of sensitivity, of normalcy. Archival wallpaper oral motifs are presented in high-pile jacquards, print, and lurex embroidery, and are enlarged to give an updated sense of proportion. Traditional tailoring silhouettes are inated and softened through down lls, padding, or 3-dimensional jacquards. Functional layered dressing maintains a constant collision of eras with new contradicting old and vice versa. Traditional corsetry and shirting details are used, while knitted leggings and socks give a sense of youth and memory.

Fabrication, and contrasts of fabrics, create a modern and soft balance. Sharp, compact wool suiting is paired with knit details while felted wools are balanced with translucent nylon cloud knits in vibrant colors. Airy, structured synthetics are paired with pure natural cottons, and sharp silks show subtle yarn-dyed stripe motifs. Accessories are soft and tactile. Sharp silhouettes in shoes and handbags are softened with padded leathers, nylons, and velvets. Fastenings are simple and intuitive, basic twisting and knotting forms are sophisticated yet are created with singular movements. Human sensitivity and touch is precious. Even while considering the journey to space or to the far reaches of our planet, sophistication and elegance can be demonstrated. Creating this plus retaining a feeling of the familiar is what makes us have a positive view of what lies ahead

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