John Rocha surprised with a wonderfuly gothic-like fairytale collection rooted in twenty five shades of black, creamy white, ashen rose, shadowed brown grey and silver.
The designer continued to play on his strengths and showcased maturity by
staying true to his design aesthetics instead of opting for the hardness we have seen prevalent in many collections of late.
Rocha referenced notions from legendary photographer Deborah Turbeville’s ‘nino’s of Guatemala, the Gaucho’s of Argentinean pampas and dandy Edwardian ruffians, through a textural palette.
A total opposite of S/S 2009’s mostly white colour palette and restricted ruffless, the collection was a much needed display of young unashamed femininity and slight innocence.
Majestic headdresses in shredded velvets or ripples of silk and flannel contributed to the nightmare before christimas charm of the collection.
Contrasting girly laced shoes helped restrained the collection from moving towards the the dark and obscure.
By playing with felted wools, gazelle stripes, untamed leathers, shearings and delicate lace the designer created a distinc and solind blend of showpieces and wearable jackets, sleeveless coats, tailored dresses and full skirts.
Rocha’s re-invention of his usual very feminine silhouettes and aesthetics proved remarkably refreshing and ultra chic, with a potentially broad client spectrum as most items had wardrobe longevity stamped all over it.
Fernando Torres (DistillEnnui.com)
Pictures by Alexander James (DistillEnnui.com)