A single skirt, and everything else in variation. For spring-summer 2027, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons impose a constraint on themselves: a graphic, linear, modernist silhouette that does not move. What moves is what is attached to it and what it is made of.
The Velcro, first of all, is not hidden. In contrasting colours, it serves as a support for crystal embroidery and continues to fasten. Opening or closing the skirt changes its shape, and reveals or conceals the decoration. The metal snap buttons, enlarged, become jewels. The crinoline, usually buried inside, moves to the outside, a decorative layer or a protective shell.
The materials make the same shift. Matte coated cotton and Re-Nylon, fabrics of industrial use, are pleated, a gesture foreign to them. Cotton takes on the look of leather or suede. Jewel-skirts recompose a guipure in crystal, while others carry modest-looking floral prints, in cotton as in synthetic.
Around it, the neighbouring pieces matter. A sweater, a shirt, a bra top: each directs the reading of the skirt, which becomes the fragment of an ensemble.
What remains is a pleated skirt that stretches beyond the body. Its free material is held in the hand, and the gesture of the woman who wears it changes with it.
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