Shiatzy Chen, a true miracle of Chinese fashion, chose to interpret her collection last season in a rather colorful way. This season, the designer has opted for a more serious color palette. The flirty side having been transformed into extreme sophistication, the Shiatzy Chen woman adapts her attitude to the rigors of winter by injecting all the elegance and finesse of which she is capable.
The color palette is reminiscent of nature and the elements. The first looks are innovative for the designer, as she uses a technique of painting on garments that was previously unheard of for her.
The rest of the collection has inspirations rooted in the natural world, with even the tiniest details recalling the plant world (I’m thinking here in particular of the green velvet boots that recall the texture of moss found on trees, the brown color that is integrated into the palette as well as various shades of green, turquoise and red).
Silk is delicate at Shiatzy and is used as a solid base for the collection. Knots, pleats, embroidery….silk can be worked and reworked in infinite ways, and the designer has understood this. The execution is poetic, at times reminiscent of her past collections with very youthful looks (miniskirts, bows, …) and at others demonstrating the new direction taken by the designer.
Fur is present on some looks, Asian-inspired prints will be rare, as prints are not the foundation of this collection. The ever-present draping techniques are reminiscent of Marchesa at times.
Velvet is found mostly on boots and brocade ensembles. Black looks are sophisticated and serious, and slightly more masculine than the rest of the collection (sleeveless jackets, long coats). Speaking of coats, a surprising choice of textiles is used this season, with lurex on ensembles and coats.
The jewels inlaid on certain pieces are there to play down certain looks and remind us of the versatility of the Shiatzy Chen woman.
Photographs by Samantha Rakotoson (Nikon D800)
Mary Yasmine Arrouche
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