For her first creative escapade as Artistic Director of Azzaro, Mathilde Castello Branco infuses the house codes with spicy femininity, between elegant perfection and very contemporary sensuality. Our heroine plays the mischievous: her deceptively simple dresses reveal a bare back veiled in tulle. A long princess gown flirts with scandal, its plunging neckline also veiled in soft shade. The wise Claudine collar is in fact a trompe l’oeil, a marriage of classicism and surrealism, just like the dress with its “scarf” neckline or the evening sailor’s dress with its mischievously shiny sequins. If Loris Azzaro was the “couturier of the stars”, these now shine at the bend of a belt or bag, sparkling constellation-style on a midnight-blue jersey dress, as moving as a movie scene. The intensity of blue and black is disturbed by the vivid red of a little draped jersey dress with a sweetheart neckline, constructed like a supple corset with a delicate fit. For this new Azzaro woman is resolutely of her time: she loves ease, simplicity, the speed of a zipper that dresses (or reveals) in a single gesture. She goes from day to night in an instant, slipping into a nocturnal trench coat where the so very Azzaro rhinestones shine like discreet stars, transformed into precious snaps. Her dresses imitate the everyday gestures she loves so much: bathrobe dresses in velvet panne, evening gowns wrapped around the bust like ultra-luxurious towels, organza that imitates the shape of her favorite t-shirt. Even the jogging suit takes on a grand soir look. Her orylag coat can be transformed as she pleases, thanks to removable sleeves that reveal the black tulle sleeves of a versatile little dress. From the men’s wardrobe, she borrows the gray flannel with which she dresses her boots or clutch, or the sporty ribbing that contrasts with the elegance of velvet or voile. As a discerning elegance, she appreciates attention to detail. Like this little silver medal, the new Azzaro signature, which shines on every model and accessory. A new star to follow in seasons that promise to be as unsettling as they are fascinating.
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