After a more abstract collection on the theme of seduction last season, Boucheron has invited us to live a unique experience for its new haute-joaillerie collection.
In keeping with the House’s heritage, the famous jeweler unveils a hypnotic and mysterious “Cabinet of Curiosities” Haute-Jewelry collection, where wild fauna and extraordinary flora cohabit in a bestiary of beauty, furry, feathered or scaly, in a veritable symphony of colors, brimming with animal representations and “secret” jewelry.
Presented in the brand’s salons during Haute Couture week in planet cocoons lit only by the brilliance of the jewels, the line is divided into six distinct microcosms: Ondes Aquatiques, Exotique Parade, Nature Espiègle, Contes et Légendes, Ailes du Désir, Ensorcelants Serpents.
The visit begins with the entrance to the Aquatic Waves which plunges us into the depths of the South Seas and Atlantic Ocean. Recreating the nuances of the seabed with pink and violet sapphires flirting with paraïba tourmalines on the diamond-paved Lambi bracelet, it reaches its climax with the sublime ring Aurelia, jewel version of the Aurelia Auriata jellyfish, set with a pink cabochon sapphire, paved with pink sapphires and diamonds and topped with a pink quartz dome.
Continuing on to the next planet, we make a quick stopover in the African desert and Indian jungle, with a spectacular Exotic Parade featuring lions, tigers and elephants. Each of these animals treasures a different colored stone in its paw: emerald for the panda, blue sapphire for the monkey and gazelle, and yellow sapphire for the lion. Except for Jamal the dromedary, who wears his stone on his back with his hump made of a 6-carat oval cabochon sapphire from Madagascar.
Naturally, La Nature Espiègle is back in the spotlight, highlighting the small animals of the countryside. Frogs, chameleons, squirrels, hedgehogs and snails are all part of a microcosm where green is in the spotlight. The frog ring is true to form, covered with green tsavorites reminiscent of its distinctive skin, and has become the guardian of a moonstone cabochon or oval peridot. The chameleon can be worn as a ring, brooch or earrings covered with a rainbow of stones, a kaleidoscope of flamboyant colors, reminiscent of the chameleon’s ability to transform its appearance.
With Contes et Légendes, Maison Boucheron takes us on a journey into the dreamlike world of imaginary creatures. Famous animals from Greek, Egyptian and Japanese mythologies are adorned with precious stones: Pegasethe white winged horse, is not easily tamed in a ring or bracelet studded with 700 sparkling diamonds and sapphires. Khepri, the famous Egyptian scarab will bring us good luck in the form of a bracelet whose lapis lazuli wings open to reveal the watch dial, the Dragon will spit its sacred fire in the form of a blackened gold ring set with pink sapphires, rubies, diamonds and a blood-red cabochon rubellite center stone.
Boucheron’s Wings of Desire would certainly not have displeased Wim Wenders, allowing us to rub shoulders with angels through the world of birds. Hera peacock rings with multicolored jewels, JwlryMachine watch in the shape of an owl, a demonstration of the expertise of master watchmakers and jewelers, and Cypris swan rings, Cypris swan rings, composed of an intertwined white and black swan symbolizing Aphrodite, and other rings featuring falcons, parrots or pink flamingos, enchant us with their central stones hiding a cushion sapphire, pear ruby or spessartite garnet in their plumage.
The snake has been one of Boucheron’s signature symbols for over a century. Its sensuality has been interpreted in a myriad of seductive ways. This season, Ensorcelants Serpents pay homage to the history of the House, wrapping themselves around the arm, neck or simply the finger like the Snake bracelet, a marvel of pearls and diamonds. Blue sapphires, green tsavorites and white diamonds recall the snake’s skin for the Python bracelet, to make us succumb to temptation. The Boa ring reinterprets the Toi & Moi concept through two pear-shaped center stones, encircled by diamond-set boa rings.
Between lands and seas, jungles and deserts, reality and mythology, the House of Boucheron unveils a wild yet gentle universe, where vivid colors embrace precious materials in a festival of remarkable, hypnotic pieces that showcase the unparalleled expertise of their artisans.
Marie-Odile Radom
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