For spring-summer 2027, the House of Alexandra Golovanoff, renowned for its cashmere, puts lambskin, denim, bags and poplin forward. The tenth anniversary is the announced pretext; the pieces named here say more about what the wardrobe has become.
Founded in Paris in 2016, the House claims expertise in cashmere and a luxury without ostentation. The SS27 collection is presented as that of a wardrobe that is now complete, to be worn as a total look or mixed, with pieces that answer one another from one season to the next. An anniversary does not make an angle on its own; what makes it one here is that cashmere is not among the pieces the House puts forward for this season.
Leather takes up space
Leather, the House indicates, is increasingly present in its collections. In light lambskin, a dress pairs a batwing top with an umbrella skirt falling below the knee, cinched at the waist to structure the silhouette. A round-neck jacket works gathers at the cuffs and hem. Denim remains present, with a new pair of trousers made in Paris and laser-washed, a technique that would reduce, according to the House, the environmental impact of traditional washing.
Accessories gain weight
The bag designed with Pierre Hardy returns in three colourways: natural leather, navy and dark chocolate. Three drawstring bags in quilted leather are added, including a trompe-l’œil version in denim-effect leather. In knitwear, a twinset in ultralight viscose comes in colours ranging from poppy red to champagne; cotton poplin supplies bermuda shorts, shirts and dresses.
A complete wardrobe, by what criteria
Three criteria allow this announcement to be read: the consistency between the discourse and the pieces, the precision of the processes, the legibility of a point of view. On consistency, the idea of a complete wardrobe rests on the breadth of categories covered, dress, jacket, trousers, bags, knitwear and poplin; it cannot be judged on the cut or on the quality of the materials, which no piece seen allows us to assess. On precision, the lambskin dress is described clearly enough to suggest a choice of volume; the rest is catalogue. On point of view, only the trompe-l’œil bag plays explicitly with codes and materials, and the House says so.
The shift is real: a House identified with cashmere shows that it can also work with leather and denim.
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