Paris, the fashion capital of the world, is a magnet for many of the world’s top designers. Presenting their collections there is a consecration for the most renowned couturiers. Such is the case for the child prodigy of American design, Zac Posen, who leaves New York to present his eponymous line in Paris.
And what better inspiration for his first Paris show than the Parisienne? But it wasn’t the modern Parisienne that inspired the designer for this Spring-Summer 2011 collection, but rather the Parisienne of yesteryear, the one who “dressed up” to go out in the evening. Inspired by the Marquise Casati and the unrivalled style of the Comtesse Jacqueline de Ribes, the designer delivers a formidable exercise in old-fashioned elegance that is by no means dusty.
The Zac Posen woman strolls the streets of Paris in a banana bun, false eyelashes and coral-red lipstick. The shoulders of the jackets are marked, the slender waist is emphasized. Loving the most delicate fabrics, the Parisienne according to Zac Posen knows how to adorn herself in tulle or silk chiffon and appreciates the most delicate lace. Feathered boleros, embroidery, skilful transparencies, she dares all, favoring a boudoir spirit without losing her fabulous sense of style. She’s particularly fond of asymmetrical strapless dresses, sometimes revealing a little more skin thanks to a masterful interplay of transparencies. Wearing the short draped dress like no other, she returns to us ethereal when she reinvents herself in a long dress, so much so that her dress accompanies and gives rhythm to her light gait.
Because women have a little bird-of-paradise side, Zac Posen used ostrich feathers on several silhouettes, dressing dresses, jumpsuits, pants and tweed jackets. They are an integral part of some skirts, as they seem to be integrated directly into the fabric, or elegantly cover a neckline that’s a little too transparent.
The Zac Posen woman loves black, of course, the ultimate symbol of chic, but she doesn’t hesitate to warm up her wardrobe with the most flamboyant red, orange and raspberry, barely joined by a hint of pink, giving the ensemble a definite impression of luxury but certainly not of coldness.
Offering elegant silhouettes tinged with old-fashioned glamour, Zac Posen didn’t forget to breathe a breath of modernity into this first Parisian collection. Alternating between short strapless or asymmetrical dresses that show off a slim waistline, and long flowing airy dresses, the American designer has created a true signature with a truly feminine and inimitable style, in homage to the legendary elegance of the Parisian woman.
Yes, Mr Posen, you’ve done it: ” it’s couture for day “.
Marie-Odile Radom
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