Belgian design duo Filip Arickx and An Vandevorst have come up with a collection inspired by knights, and more specifically around the theme of modern armor, for Spring-Summer 2011.
The A.F. Vandevorst woman is a modern-day Joan of Arc, wearing short dresses covered in metallic sequins reminiscent of medieval chainmail, or pieces in silver-coated cotton or jersey in shades of gray or silver. But far from being rigid, these new “armors” are, on the contrary, light and airy, emphasizing the gait. In silver or gold, knee-length dresses are draped, as are certain tops, adding an undeniable touch of glamour.
The chainmail-style breastplate is reinvented as a little top or soft vest. In the image of military parades, a model proudly carries a white flag in the colors of A.F. Vandevorst, in boots and grey leggings over a slightly asymmetrical draped dress. The necklines are deep, the pants fluid and the jackets structured, the shoulders marked. The two designers feminized the masculine suit vest by revealing the back of their model.
Materials mix and become less metallic, the trench coat is worn belted and small, fitted jackets follow each other for a short interlude. Then colors suddenly become brighter, with a luminous mustard yellow. Long satin dresses, short draped dresses and gold pantsuits follow one another.
A white version of the main models brings the show to a soft close, like an echo of the runway show.
The two Belgian designers offered us a very feminine and successful vision of the warrior, a woman who fights but doesn’t put her femininity aside. And the least we can say is that Joan of Arc emerged victorious.
Marie-Odile Radom
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