It is an ethnic but chic woman that Antonio Marras offers us for this Fall-Winter 2010-2011 season, a woman advocating the mixture of materials and prints. Contrasting prints in autumnal colors where the floral pattern mixes with fur or jacquard and where stripes flirt with polka dots. Antonio Marras reinvents the nomadic woman, an adventuress with multiple influences and crazy contemporary. It is the “melting fashion 2010” according to Kenzo, a real tribute to the style launched by Kenzo Takada 40 years ago.
The dresses are very long, vaporous and fluid. Delicate, they are warmed up by small fur collars, long sleeves, or long striped wool scarves. This collection marks the return of Kenzo’s large scarves and stoles, which also work well with body-hugging jumpsuits or flowing pants. The whole is worn with wedge booties with fur or long nubuck boots always wedge to lengthen the silhouette.
The mix of materials is not just a mix of pieces, as the coats are multiple and covered with sequins here while their sleeves are furry there. The jacquard knit combines with flowers and is worn with a fine belt. The tartan is reinvented in autumn and combines brick, deep blue and gray.
The materials chosen by the Sardinian designer give back its letters of nobility to the patchwork by marrying in an unconventional ceremony: the gray is magnified by the red before marrying the brick. The fall colors are exploding: brick, rust, purple, blue but also gray.
The new Kenzo woman plays with convention. She mixes the male-female wardrobe by wearing oversized men’s jackets, Bosalino-style wide-rim felts. She likes to play with proportions and multiplies layers and lengths. She accessorizes her outfits with massive purses and giant clutches. And if the pair of sunglasses will be the de rigueur accessory this winter, the Kenzo woman will prefer vintage type frames, delicately decorated with floral motifs on certain models and rather in the shape of a fly.
Far from detracting, all these mixes coexist in a harmony defining this “melting-fashion 2010”.
What better tribute to the original style of the House than this very modern nomadic woman!!! The new woman furiously echoes the first Kenzo woman.
Marie-Odile Radom
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