BORBONESE Autumn/Winter 2023

by pascal iakovou
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Milan, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. A morning of intense negotium, which as such requires a break of otium. Savini is the perfect place: discreet and reassuring, an institution since 1867, favored by the demi monde and busy citizens. On the first floor, in a quiet corner with a panoramic view on the gallery, table 7, Maria Callas’ favorite, has kept its number and position. One can breathe now the same atmosphere of that glorious moment: extremely refined feminine elegance; beauty and appropriateness as an affirmation of personality and independence. It is the fantasy, made true, of Dorian Tarantini and Matteo Mena, who imagine a new chapter of their Borbonese story, bringing it to a lively place expressive of an unequivocal Milanese spirit. They play with the senses, superimposing the soft colors and soft textures of beauty products with an idea of beauty to wear, but also to savour. Eyeshadow colors like pastry colors, textures that gratify the eye as well as the touch or the palate. The Borbonese women move beautifully in this well-kept environment. The colors of the cosmetics – tones of powder and blush, amber, peacock and topaz of eye shadows, burgundy of lipsticks – are used for clothes and bags, which perhaps contain small cosmetic boxes for quick touch-ups. They have the attitude of female entrepreneurs, who see the beauty parlor as a place of empowerment and self-love. Hoisted on high OP suede wedges, they wear long coats and pencil skirts, small jackets, shirts, intarsia pullovers, dresses and tops suspended by chains covered in OP suede. Chains dance like dense fringes at the hem of long skirts; jeans have a stitched seam instead of an ironed pleat. The cosmetic palette and the pervasive use of leather create synesthetic effects, which continue in the bags, both a complement and a seal to their conscious way of presenting themselves. As at the beauty counter, the colors express a variety of textures and consistencies ranging from classic OP suede in unexpected hues, to glossy naplak, to intensely tactile faux fur. The design of the accessories is amplified b the materials, creating a sensory kaleidoscope. Infinite is the new hobo with a sinuous profile, characterized by two intertwining chain links. Tweet is clean in design, but soft, with oversized metal details, while Reverse is a padded parallelepiped. Cortina has a rounded shape; in the small Tresor bag, the shoulder strap can be used as a necklace. The collaboration with Swarovski carries on, extending from 110 to include, this season, the Cortina. They are both made of nappa calfskin or recycled fabric, and decorated with Swarovski crystals and archival rivets.

Following innumerable modulations of color, shape and texture, the identity of Borbonese is multiplied in the name of elegant precision.

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