by pascal iakovou
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A tale of sensuality, minimal surrealism, and romance.

For Autumn Winter 2022, Arturo Obegero envisioned the musicians of an imaginary orchestra conducted by French multidisciplinary artist Serge Lutens.

Delving into traditional haute couture and vintage lingerie, RUE DE ROME is an ode to sensuality, blurring the line between masculine and feminine sartorial conventions, and creating a conversation between tailoring and flou.

Delicate lace by Sophie Hallette — an international reference for French lace and tulle — becomes a second skin, tattooing the body as seen in the surreal and romantic photographs lensed by Serge Lutens.

The designer experimented with lace by combining the precious fabric with cotton and technical jerseys. On a mission to inject refinement and sensuality within menswear, the designer created deep triangular lace panels on the back of long sleeve tops.

AO’s signature Amaya bodysuit is revisited from a lingerie point of view.

The Lutens rose top, in swirling lace and organza, is an evolution of AO’s Nijinski rose ensemble from the Nordeste collection.

Knitted scarves adorning tops were inspired by gowns gifted to Arturo by his grandmother Palmira. They also echo the haute couture from one of Arturo’s heroes, Cristóbal Balenciaga. Elevated denim ensembles, including a bustier morphing into an 18th century tailcoat as well as a jacket and a Querelle bodysuit, are AO’s daywear ideals, both casual and chic.

The Afanador trompe-l’oeil matador-inspired trousers, blooming around the wearer’s waist, exemplify the designer’s sensibility. They’re named after Ruven Afanador, another hero of Arturo’s stylistic universe.

Bridal attire in white lace, evoking femininity and romance, become the exclamation mark to the collection.

RUE DE ROME is a black and white wardrobe, symbolising darkness versus light, and the relationship between perversion and purity.

A bottle green suit, made of upcycled velvet theatre curtains, is the only touch of colour. Its cropped jacket and flared trousers epitomise the designer’s own personal style.

Ultimately, RUE DE ROME is about transcribing the fantasy of haute couture into a ready-to-wear language.

Collaboration is a key component of Arturo’s process. This season, furrier Quentin Veron helped bring to life the designer’s vision, creating an imposing scarf made from up-cycled mink coats. It is the expression of opulence and glamour.

Every garment is made in Paris from leftover and/or upcycled fabrics.

*Rue de Rome is a luthier and instrument row in Paris, home to workshops and stores for music aficionados.

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