by pascal iakovou
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Spring Summer 2021: the revolution of matter

Simona Marziali presents a collection on the edge of contrasts, between rigor and creativity, between past and present: drawing inspiration from the works of Alberto Burri. The MRZ Spring/Summer 2021 Collection combines urban style with a rural dimension, at the origins of the matter, creating a contemporary elegance full of visual contrasts, starting from the choice of heterogeneous materials. In an imaginary atmosphere, the essential and minimalist design merges with folk references, creating a chorus of dissonances that coexist in perfect harmony with each other. The Simona Marziali’s expressive language is inspired by the famous series « I Sacchi » by Alberto Burri, master of matter and informal painting. Following the example of the great Umbrian artist, the designer evokes the vitality, the strength of the matter, the symbolic power of the essential simplicity obtained with the display of different materials, only apparently juxtaposed randomly. Simona Marziali pays particular attention to the representation of canvases composed of scraps of stitched, worn-out and frayed fabric, restoring the Burri’s emotional and poetic dimension through the use of simple and natural yarns – cotton and linen – combined with technical fibers and enhanced by elaborate manipulations. The collection Mannish cut knitted tailleur, return an oversized silhouette, never exaggerated, emblem of a contemporary femininity. Original workings interrupt the continuity of the surface and create a three-dimensionality with patterned, openwork and floating points. The rigor of the suits is contrasted by the knitwear, with a deliberately raw, unfinished appearance, which is enhanced, just like the matter of the worn-out jute pieces never hidden or confused with layers of color in Burri’s canvases. The collection is made up of a capsule linked to the world of sportswear, to underline the concept of a relaxed elegance with volumes taken to the extreme, but no less rigorous, according to the stylistic codes of MRZ. The abstract tones of Alberto Burri’s art can also be found in the used shades: optical white, milk, beige, gold and black are mostly used in a monochromatic way or treated in contrast. Hints of red and green embellish the whole. The collection follows a structural and balanced scheme of spaces, dimensions and relationships between the chromatic masses and, albeit in an unusual way, it determines accents with a classic taste, exploiting the diversity of materials and their surface and volumetric characteristics.

MRZ SS21 FASHION FILM: Written and Directed by Bonasia&Narcisi Designer Simona Marziali Styling Maria Giulia Riva Model Ughy Gelgotaite Photo Francesco Bonasia

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