by pascal iakovou
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The parity between tailoring and a fluid modern wardrobe that Lucie and Luke Meier have achieved in previous men’s collections finds a new relationship this season. The heritage of craft, the precise construction processes, and the discerning use of materials that characterise their work, runs seamlessly through both structured and soft garments.

A progression of tailoring is fundamental to Lucie and Luke Meier’s design process. Present in this collection is a new proposal which is at once both sharp and relaxed: light wool jackets with slim notched lapels shown traditionally or folded inward, cotton/linen tailored topcoats and shirt-jackets, and stong Japanese cotton V-neck shirts which follow the lapel form and propose a fresh, open neckline. Trousers are full length with a slight break, or cropped and precise.

While volumes are frequently generous, lightness is maintained. An airy, translucent, floral, organic banana fibre trench coat, a sleeveless canvas knee-length overcoat, an acid floral viscose parka. Knit gilets are conceived with intricate floral jacquards whose drawings become visible only at a distance, while elongated hand-crocheted fringing flows from the shoulders and sides of light cotton sweaters.

Texture and detail abound. Contrast stitching, crocheted motifs and embroideries, as well as controlled imperfections in fabrics, add energy and are utilized in sharp silhouettes. They simultaneously add graphic elements and a human touch to shirts, bags, and shoes. Channelling a message of continuity between present and past, traditional know-how and Jil Sander’s forward facing spirit.

Movements are effortless. Fabrics and colours are pure. Cotton, linen, viscose. White, black and Klein blue cut through a palette that is predominantly natural: off-white, cream, sand, cocoa, dark sage, burgundy and deep navy. Stripes and pin-stripes at a closer look appear to be hand-woven and hand-drawn. Illustrated botanical prints bedeck the back of jackets and coats. They are hymns to nature. Men wear jewels, amulets and charms made of chiffon, horsehair, wood, and natural stones, at times with functional clasps and keys.

The Jil Sander man travels. Bags are important. This season there are sturdy box bags, flat elongated tote bags with sliding leather leaf pockets, and voluminous dimensional tote bags whose shape has been reworked to make them larger, softer, and transformable. In soft black or white leather, white canvas and black leather, and box bags with rigid multi-colored panels, sometimes carried inside hand crocheted netting.

Complementary opposites. Shoes are either sensitive, soft Nappa leather flat moccasins with a rounded toe, or strong, solid sandals and boots with sturdy soles, anchoring the silhouette once again in an urban sensitivity.

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