It all began so well in the Nicolas Ghesquière, Bernard Arnault passion. After 15 years with Balenciaga, Ghesquière became artistic director of women’s collections for Louis Vuitton in 2013. If the designer, artist and couturier had made Balenciaga rhyme with his own name, here he is propelled into a house with a significant history and staggering sales figures – Bernard Arnault’s love child. The acquisition of Louis Vuitton was a perilous affair that left a lasting impression. Today, the initials of the Vuitton family are emblems of the success of Bernard Arnault’s group: LVMH. To enter Vuitton is to conquer Arnault’s heart.
The end of the Ghesquière/Arnault passion; or a simple twist in the fashion telenovela: « LVMH formally denies erroneous reports that Nicolas Ghesquière may soon leave the artistic direction of Louis Vuitton. Nicolas Ghesquière’s contract is not up for renewal and will not be until the end of 2018, » according to the official statement. No matter if Ghesquière has established his « Domicile conjugale » at Louis Vuitton, or if the flavor of « Baisés Volés » is gone, before the time of its rout the story is already cult.
Ghesquière/ Arnault: a modern romance
If Marc Jacobs is a media-savvy designer, Nicolas Ghesquière favors modesty and is more discreet. Yet he is well aware of his power: he has created iconic designs that have become classics. At Louis Vuitton, his silhouettes quickly took center stage and set the tone for trends. An advocate of a vision, « fashion lies between art and culture ». Bernard Arnault succumbed, and the timing was perfect, as the Fondation Vuitton stands amid the trees of the Bois de Boulogne.
In addition, a selection of avant-garde muses: Alicia Vikander, Léa Seydoux and Jaden Smith occupy the new campaigns, shot like contemporary art series by photographers such as Juergen Teller. The brand takes on a new dimension. Nicolas transforms the encounter between fashion and art into a million dollars for Bernard.
We always forget that classics were once novelties. Has the Ghesquière/Arnault romance fallen into this morose notion of « classic »?
Ghesquière/ Arnault: a retro-futuristic couple
After the sensationalism and passion of the present, inspired by Marc Jacobs, Ghesquière proposes to Arnault to embrace the future and leave behind the romanticism of nostalgia.
The fashion world keeps a close eye on every show: it’s the return of trapeze skirts, zipped dresses and spindle-shaped pants. A sixties facelift with leather boots. Pieces from Louis Vuitton’s collections found their way onto many catwalks and were imitated by the major clothing chains. Louis Vuitton dominates the market?
Vinyl pants, metallic leggings and sometimes risqué prints, some wonder if the Ghesquière label isn’t taking over from Bernard Arnault’s brand, locking it into a futuristic style that translates into an encounter with shoppers that remains in the realm of science fiction…
Ghesquière/Arnault: a love of risk
With Marc Jacobs, it was aggressive passion: like Bernard Arnault, he loved art and collaborated with the most irreverent artists of the time, such as Takashi Murakami, Richard Prince and Stephen Sprouse, and rekindled success around the brand’s monogram. Disfigured and reconfigured over the seasons without changing the brand’s DNA, the monogram invades leather canvas, the raw material for the brand’s famous best-selling bags.
On his arrival, Ghesquière reworked the bag, simplifying it and removing the monograms. Betrayal? Defeat?
Another hint of infidelity: in an interview with Le Petit Journal on June 2, Nicolas Ghesquière claims to be in a position to launch his own brand, and to do so « soon, very soon ». In response, Bernard Arnault no longer conceals his admiration for Jonathan Anderson.
When it’s time to make predictions, nothing good can come of it. If Louis Vuitton rhymes with « Fly, sail, travel », then a change of course is not long in coming…
Anderson? why not. If the bag is a precious element that seems to reassure buyers, Pablo Coppola deserves a mention. His lemon-yellow business bag at Bally is a hit. The designer thinks accessory first and silhouette second; and if anyone knows the importance of accessories, it’s Bernard Arnault…
For some ideas on Nicolas Ghesquière’s legacy at Balenciaga: https: //www.luxsure.fr/2015/08/07/bye-bye-alexander-wang-enfin-pas-vraiment-les-5-raisons-de-ce-depart/
