5000 Spring-Summer 2027: Taylor Thompson turns exile into a grammar

by PASCAL IAKOVOU
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For his first appearance at London Fashion Week, Taylor Thompson presents 5000’s Spring-Summer 2027 collection as a reflection on home, heritage and what one carries when changing city. The title, Turn on, Tune in, Drop out, announces a collection shaped by sound as much as by clothing.

Home as a question, not as a backdrop

The starting point is a line by Gil Scott-Heron, “Home Is Where the Hatred Is”. Thompson sees in it less a formula than a contradiction: home can be a refuge and the place one must leave. This tension runs through the collection by way of references to Simone de Beauvoir, James Baldwin and Scott-Heron, summoned to think about freedom, belonging and the possibility of becoming someone else.

The subject is tied to a real displacement: the designer left Oakland for London, where he is Designer in Residence at the Paul Smith Foundation. His arrival at London Fashion Week therefore takes on a precise meaning: that of a first gesture in a chosen city, rather than an abstract account of identity.

A presentation conceived with sound

The collection is presented at 180 Studios, in the Devon Ojas Listening Room, with a musical selection by Zakia Sewell. The set-up brings music, memory and clothing together without confusing them. It does not seek to illustrate a biography; it gives the presentation a frame in which sound becomes a form of archive, able to connect places and timeframes.

The place given to listening distinguishes the collection from mere sociological commentary. At 5000, the question of home passes through more unstable images: a place one leaves, a space one chooses, a history one must examine before being able to transform it. The garment becomes the vehicle of this circulation, between heritage and projection.

A first show as a statement

The house’s press material describes Spring-Summer 2027 as a movement between departure, search, confrontation, freedom and return. These words could quickly add up to a manifesto that is too smooth. Their interest lies rather in letting the difficulty show: there is no clear resolution to the question of home, only forms to be recomposed.

This first London presentation thus opens a space of reading for 5000. It places the brand in a scene where fashion can still serve to organise references, voices and trajectories, without reducing the garment to a slogan. The images of the collection are provided by 5000.

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