ANREALAGE SS27: SKIN, when the garment becomes a mutating surface

by PASCAL IAKOVOU
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At ANREALAGE, technology is never merely an argument for novelty. It serves to shift how the garment is read. With SKIN, his spring-summer 2027 collection, Kunihiko Morinaga continues this research by making the surface an unstable material, somewhere between living organism and digital interface.

Presented at the Maison de la Radio et de la Musique, the collection starts from a simple idea: skin renews itself, takes on colour, transforms. The silhouettes follow this movement, from second-skin bodysuits to more armoured constructions, made of motifs, traditional textiles, Japanese washi and translucent sequins.

Colour as behaviour

The collection draws on prints made with Kyocera’s FOREARTH technology, announced as water-saving, as well as Ultrasuede scales. With SEKISAI’s Effective Skin technology, 3D-printed elements change colour depending on the viewing angle. The principle matters more than the effect: colour becomes a response of the material rather than an applied decoration.

This logic reaches its most spectacular point in six cocktail and evening dresses. Each incorporates 1,000 to 2,000 individually controlled E Ink electronic-paper scales. Unlike LEDs, they emit no light: it is the material that changes colour. ANREALAGE describes this as an electronic couture that remains tied to the behaviour of a surface.

From the body to the «third skin»

The references range from chromatophores to video-game avatars, from robot graphics to Osamu Tezuka’s Phoenix. The music of Stravinsky’s The Firebird accompanies this narrative of rebirth. The whole could tip into a technological manifesto; Morinaga partly avoids this pitfall by keeping a question of cut, volume and texture.

SKIN thus proposes a «third skin»: a garment capable of change, without becoming a screen for all that. This is the most accurate point of the collection. It does not promise that technology solves fashion; it asks what becomes of the garment when its appearance ceases to be fixed.

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