Alfred Gratien unveils its finest vintages
Alfred Gratien champagnes can be found in the cellars of the finest palaces such as Le Bristol and Le Meurice, as well as in France’s finest restaurants, yet they remain largely unknown to the general public and deserve a spotlight.
Founded in Epernay in 1864 by Alfred Gratien, the house can count on a line of cellar managers who have all belonged to the same family for 4 generations: the Jaegers. At the beginning of 2007, Nicolas Jaeger took over. This house, on a human scale, is therefore inevitably theirs. Nicolas tells us with a touch of mischief that his grandfather had kept a spare set of keys for some time. So, whenever he felt like it, he would make a sort of pilgrimage to “his” cellars.
The house preserves a certain tradition, as fermentation in oak barrels is carried out with uncompromising, meticulous care. Each vintage, vinified separately, is clearly identified by barrel marking. The estate is one of the last to carry out all its vinification in wood. For vintage wines, disgorging is done “à la volée”, i.e. by hand.
A few days ago, during a lunch at Lasserre, an institution of Parisian gastronomy, I was able to discover the house’s finest vintages.
Review!
Le Blanc des Blancs
Chardonnay entirely from classified terroirs, for the most part from the vineyards of Avize and Cramant. Aged on laths for 4 years. Dosage: 9 g/l.
A perfectly constructed wine, combining balance, structure and finesse. On the nose, sublime notes of vanilla and brioche give way to an invigorating hint of citrus.
Le Brut Nature
We were able to preview this wine at the tasting!
With grape varieties of 41% chardonnay, 32% pinot noir, 27% pinot meunier and fermentation and ageing in small 228-litre oak barrels of at least four wines. No malolactic fermentation, of course.
On tasting, the wine is pale gold in color, with a persistent, pearly mousse. The nose opens with scents of lemon and white flowers. The palate is straightforward, taut and lively, with remarkable balance and freshness.
The vintages
We were lucky enough to taste the 1996, 1997 and 1998 vintages.
Our favorite: the exceptional, well-balanced 1996 vintage. Highly recommendable. Grape varieties: 65% chardonnay, 18% pinot noir and 17% pinot meunier.
La cuvée Paradis rosé
Blend of white and red wines: 58% chardonnay, 42% pinot noir.
Ageing on laths: 7 years. Dosage: 9 g/l. Salmon color. Very persistent, pearly mousse. Nose opens with aromas of orange peel, dried fruit and gingerbread. Vibrant palate with notes of sorbet and raspberries. A powerful yet tender rosé, full of harmony.
Julien Tissot
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@jultissot
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