More than just an accessory, jewelry has to carry its share of history and symbolism, and the haute joaillerie collections presented alongside the haute couture shows are a perfect example. Visits to Boucheron, Bulgari, Chanel, Damiani, Temple St. Clair. With interviews with Temple St Clair Carr, designer, and Benjamin Comar, International President of Chanel JoaillerieMore than an accessory, a piece of jewelry must contain its share of history and symbols, and the haute joaillerie collections presented alongside the haute couture shows are a perfect example of this. The major jewelry houses have chosen to use animals and other creatures as emblems, revealing them in an even more exceptional light. This is the case of the Serpent Bohème, an emblematic collection by Boucheron, for example. For the new season, the animal’s head is adorned with diamonds and gold beads, with a honeycomb update to increase lightness and let in even more light. The same snake can be found at Bulgari, with more colors, as on this exceptional set in engraved yellow gold, composed of 55 round marquise diamonds. Fashion Week is also an opportunity for foreign fashion houses to present their couture collections. Such is the case for American brand Temple St Clair, which chose the salons des Arts décoratifs to showcase its golden menagerie. Frogs, turtles and foxes cohabit with sapphires, emeralds, diamonds and other luminous stones, blending symbolism and emotion. At Chanel, we’re more about timelessness than symbols. The lion is thus invited into the setting and onto jewels that are both modern and daring. Like this “Lion Talisman” necklace or these rings featuring the animal in onyx, white opal or white gold. At Damiani, Silvia Damiani was inspired by the phalanx rings worn by women in the Middle Ages to illustrate their social status, and has created the new Swan double-rings that sit like a bird on three fingers, delicately dressing the whole hand and playing perfectly on feelings.
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