For the latest runway show celebrating the 20th anniversary of her brand, Tsumori Chisato continues to see life in multicolor, and for Spring-Summer 2011 offers us a pop collection, very colorful and poetic, with a nod to the works of visual artist Victor Vasarely, whose work she appreciates.
Avoiding a simple retrospective, Tsumori Chisato has chosen to take us into her dreamlike universe, whose imagination was nourished by animals and landscapes from her most recent trip to Africa. Silhouettes follow one another in a veritable demonstration of the designer’s savoir-faire, revisiting her favorite themes, each one recalling the previous one in a small detail.
We’re delighted to find the designer’s trademark prints, sometimes stripes, sometimes pops, which she uses on several pieces: dresses, suits, rainwear. A few butterfly wings pop up here and there, adding a touch of poetry.
Tsumori Chisato loves stripes, and uses them in a variety of ways. It appears in black and white like piano keys, accompanied by red, blue or yellow waves, in one of these famous prints. It zigzags on a trapeze dress worn with a sleeveless jacket, or on a skirt with a ruffled shirt. It’s red on polo shirts and ends up multicolored, a nod to another fan of colorful stripes.
The nautical theme is very present, like an echo of travel. The sailor’s bonnet became a no-holds-barred accessory, reinvented as a fitted maxi dress with a scarf print, or even as a jacket. The sailor’s cap will be the accessory of the summer for the designer, worn tilted to one side on a strict chignon but without the red pompom.
For accessories, the designer offers vertiginous platform sandals, sometimes accompanied by very long socks. Open-toe booties are two-tone and wedge-shaped, much to our delight. Sunglasses will be de rigueur for next season, but not just any sunglasses. Sometimes with colored frames, these glasses give a little Cheshire cat look, but above all, a star look.
The cat is also very present in this collection. It appears embroidered in sequins on a dress, or basking in the sun on a yellow print speckled with leopard, a print found throughout the collection.
For a moment, the collection is less colorful, with much more sober pieces. The dungarees are worn loose and flowing with a small satchel and a white vest with red polka dots. The ultra-light knitted shorts go well with a tweed paletot.
As a tribute to a certain Parisian elegance, the designer also offers us much more classic silhouettes, filled with real sophistication.
Then, once again, color and print take over, but in softer, pastel shades. The leopard abandons the cat for a green-haired fairy and reinvents itself in a purple print. Embroidery, sequins, transparencies and tweed yokes punctuate a colorful fashion show.
If one poem were to define Tsumori Chisato’s unparalleled style, it would undoubtedly be L’invitation au voyage. After all, each of her collections is a journey into her dream world.
Marie-Odile Radom
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