The Second DiaryMame Kurogouchi unveiled her Autumn/Winter 2019 collection today March 1st in Paris
The diary consists of her notes, photos and drawings.
Mame Kurogouchi Fall Winter 2019 collection is once again based on the designer’s diary and celebrates a mixture of fact and fiction, different times, cultures and languages through a journey into the universe of blue.
The narrative of formal and personal elements seems contradictory yet adds up to a cohesive inspiration. Old blue fabric from the 17th century became a clue to the journey. Old Imari porcelain shards inspired the idea of fragmented memories. Dissolving bath salt inspired the collection’s dominant colour, which alludes to the works related to blue; from Derek Jerman to Joni Mitchell, Pablo Picasso to Roger Hiorns, and paintings of Kunisada Utagawa collected by Claude Monet. All these are suggested in Maiko Kurogouchi’s second diary, her continuing experiment from the last season, though this time the attempt of documenting daily events to face her inner self has become densely stratified tableaux of her puzzling dreams.
Personal experience and memory intentionally never take a linear approach. The idea of piled up pages and fragmented memory inspired the collection’s versatile styles. The items are designed to be worn as one, but details such as buttons and strings allow multiple layerings to create a single outfit – this leitmotiv of the season is a mirror of diversified contemporary needs in motion. Blue, silver or gold lamé threads are interwoven to bomber jacket, tailoring pieces and skirts, as if hoping to crystallise opaque memories in the form of clothing. The silhouettes exemplify an accurate ease, thanks to the finest fabrics such as silk, wool and cashmere. Various Japanese manufacturing techniques of weaving and dying have been applied to create the original fabrics and patterns.
Inspirations from everyday life and tradition prevail. Popular pattern from early Imari ceramics comes with the earrings with kintsugi inspired detail. White, dense mist trails over a body, coagulated and transformed to the voluminous yet delicate earrings and necklace that acquired the glass-like transparency, lightness and porcelain touch. The new PVC bag series features tablecloth with a kaleidoscopic pattern paired with echoed crystal handles. The brand’s signature PVC bag wears striking orange.