Home ModeFashion Week Maison Margiela Homme Automne-Hiver 2018

Maison Margiela Homme Automne-Hiver 2018

by pascal iakovou
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Men’s Collection
Autumn – Winter 2018

Synergy happens when several codes are unified in one new language. In his first menswear
collection at Maison Margiela, creative director John Galliano joins together classic symbols of
the men’s wardrobe by applying past and present house ideas into one forward proposal for a new
glamour. An overcoat is hacked up into a jacket, a trench coat is spliced with a formal coat, while
others are reduced to their core using the decortiqué technique. The concept of dressing in haste,
established in the Artisanal line, is at the core of the Fall Winter 2018 collection informing cuts.
Humble menswear staples such as the greatcoat, the nylon sports jacket and the cable knit are repositioned
and collaged with sartorial heritage tailoring. Appropriating the inappropriate, an Aran
knit cardigan appears in all-rubber. A navy bomber is flocked with shadow effects that imitate wear.
Introducing Artisanal pieces to the Maison’s menswear, a relaxed suit is cut on the bias, an innovative
first for sartorial dressing. The show is presented on the backdrop of a synergistic glyph, a new symbol
imbued with a positive message for the house and echoed in the decortiqué back of a Mackintosh
coat. Known as the SMS, the Security Margiela Sneaker makes its debut alongside heeled men’s Tabi
boots and menswear interpretations of the recently launched Glam Slam bag.
‘New comprehensions of glamour are the modern-day synergy of dressing; desires that bind us
together across identities and wardrobes.’ – Maison Margiela
Fabrics native to the men’s wardrobe such as Harris Tweed, herringbone, flannel and a wealth of
wools are contrasted by the artificial nature of rubber and poly-urethane. Polyester gabardine and
nylon nod at sportswear while leathers and knitwear draw on menswear classics.
Tailoring takes centre stage, from sartorial 1940s silhouettes and military cutting to rare and
mercurial bias-cutting using properties from the Artisanal line. Transforming traditional tailoring,
staples from the men’s wardrobe are spliced or hacked up for new expressions. Maison Margiela’s
term for cutting up a garment to its frame, the technique of decortiqué is applied to coats and knits.
Rubber is moulded to imitate knitwear. Flocking simulates shadow play, while pigment print adds
painted-over effects.
Drawing on the traditional men’s and military wardrobes, black, navy, charcoal and melange grey set
the tone for the collection. The muted colours are interrupted by Klein blue, red, bright yellow and
orange, hinting at the palette of sportswear. The presence of white cements the Maison Margiela
Rooted in heirloom jewellery, rhinestone chokers and military buttons worn as brooches correspond
with the memory of medals, cast from rubber moulds. Bracelets and belts are graphically coloured in
leather, foiled leather and transparent PVC. Chains appear as belt and necklaces, while one necklace
carries a cravat as medal. The collection introduces the SMS, the Security Margiela Sneaker: a steeltoe-capped
trainer with a vibram sole, in white, black, red, yellow and blue. The puffa slipper is
constructed in waterproof cordura nylon with a crêpe gum sole, while decortiqué cowboy boots and
the Tabi – flat or with a six-centimetre heel – underline house codes.

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