by pascal iakovou
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An entire wardrobe of MM6 classics reimagined in puffed-up, padded forms. Representative of the collective identity of the house, the Autumn-Winter 2019 collection is unified and mysterious; democratic and inclusive. Individual garments remain humble – never overridden by concept. Instead, the MM6 wardrobe, which encompases ready-to-wear, accessories, footwear and jewellery for women, continues to evolve and build upon its own modern wearability. Presented in an immersive, padded world inside the Maison Margiela store in Milan – where even skirting boards and chandeliers are transformed – the brand finds a temporary home in Italy for the season. Alongside a soundtrack of distorted, sleepy techno by Frédéric Sanchez, the environment brings a new conceptuality to the collection. Behaving in a truly inclusive way (echoing the democratic nature of garments) the presentation is open to members of the public – true fans of MM6 – and five limited-edition pieces are available to purchase immediately after. SILHOUETTE Clothing made for individuals. Recognisable pieces – pleated skirts, dresses, cardigans, parkas – are puffed-up and transformed, but always remain wearable and familiar. Magic is hidden in the details, where even buttons and pockets are rendered in padded forms. Many items are borrowed from a masculine wardrobe – oversized trench coats, cropped trucker jackets, and, for the first time the classic 5-zip biker, which is carefully reinterpreted from the archives in nylon. Feminine accents can be found too, particularly in the delicate circle dress, front-slit skirts and slip dresses. The anagram ‘THAT IRIS SUITS YOU’ is referencing an historical print of the Maison “THAT SUIT IS YOU SIR“, cut out and placed on suiting.


Tactile desire. Humble fabrications. Soft, cloudy, light. The cotton of the maison’s iconic ‘blouses blanches’ staff uniform, nylon taken from inside jacket lining, elegant satin and chunky cable knit. Everyday materials are repurposed, given added dimension through padding.


A palette of rich whites. Sometimes stark, almost bleached. Other times warmer. Then, pure black. Nothing in-between.


The notion of ‘objets trouvés’ continues. Wine bottles become padded bags. Drawstring cord appears as rings, and price tag logos as badges. An oversized 6-handle-bag is introduced for the first time, stamped with the MM6 logo. Whilst smaller peekaboo evening bags are camouflaged underneath the house’s iconic white dust bag. MM6 classics, such as the ‘6’ logo, manifest as insignia earrings, and inflatable necklaces cast in metal and sprayed white. Crystal jewellery, echoing the chandeliers of the maison, are reworked into earrings and deconstructed necklaces.


Knee-high boots are disguised as large, oversized pillowcases. Cowboy mules are reinterpreted in padded nylon, complete with traditional texan embroidery. The ‘6’ heel boot, which was introduced for pre-fall, is also concealed with shiny nylon bootie covers.

CREDITS: Stylist: Anna Pesonen Production: Studio Boum Set Design: Derek Martin Casting Director: Henry Thomas Make-up: Anne-Sophie Costa Hair: Johnnie Biles Make-up: Anne-Sophie Costa

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