In the small circle of designers of evening gowns and other draped gala dresses, Zuhair Murad remains unavoidable. For Fall-Winter 2010-2011, the Lebanese designer offers us a « Romantic Intimacy » collection inspired by the hushed, powdery ambience of Belle Époque boudoirs for contemporary yet incredibly romantic women.
The designer has imagined daring, glamorous dresses that highlight the silhouette and curves in a cascade of noble materials. The waist is slim and marked, the jackets are slim-fitting and the skirts are full-bodied, magnifying the silhouette.
The Zuhair Murad woman is the romantic par excellence. But it’s a woman with multiple tastes, who loves audacity while never forgetting safe values. Minidresses, sometimes with long trains, alternate with long princess dresses. Multiple necklines. Bustiers for a princess look, draped or asymmetrical to reveal a goddess, strapless for a deceptively wise look, and deep and gathered to let sensuality shine through. The cuts exalt the perfection of curves.
To perfect these new jewel cases, particular care has been taken with ornamentation to bring sparkle and unostentatious glamour. Lace boleros are adorned with rhinestones, pearl embroidery multiplies, while floral inlays delicately adorn a few transparencies. Gowns sparkle with a thousand lights, but are discreetly adorned with tiaras or other hair jewels.
The emphasis is on draping, one of the designer’s trademarks, and embroidery. Tulle, silk, chiffon, organza and duchesse satin are used to create luxurious outfits of incredible lightness. Draping, ruffles, embroidery and delicate pearls only serve to perfect the splendid silhouettes imagined as a tribute to one of history’s most elegant eras. He multiplies effects to give softness and glamour to these dresses. Lace, guipure, bows, feathers on some of the shoes and silk tulle all add life to the dresses, covering the few transparencies with perfect delicacy.
The boudoir spirit is constantly in evidence, from the lightness of the fabrics to the color palette chosen by Zuhair Murad. For his gala gowns, the designer chose neutral yet soft tones ranging from powdery or fleshy pink to watery blue, ecru, orange and pearl gray. The hair is vaporous, almost ethereal, and the make-up is also in nude tones, but very powdery.
And the wedding dress is a wonderful synthesis of this spirit, sumptuous all in tulle and lace, adorned in the image of this romantic, airy collection.
Zuhair Murad offers us a confident, glamorous and romantic woman. He creates exceptional dresses for wonderful moments, imagining her getting ready delicately in her boudoir. And so do we…
Marie-Odile Radom