Home ModeFashion Week LUISA SPAGNOLI FALL WINTER 2021-22


by pascal iakovou
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A daydream, an endless exchange between reality and the oneiric dimension, marked by a soundtrack alternating rhythms and melodies. Back to life is the video presentation for the Luisa Spagnoli Autumn-Winter 2020/2021 collection, a short film on style, but also on the dichotomy between reality and the ideal, everyday life on one side and the desire for a new-found freedom on the other. Three international models are the protagonists – the ethereal blonde Lauren de Graf, the brunette Manon Leloup and the sensual Zosia Nowak – quite different from one another and perfectly embody the freshness and contemporaneity of the woman by Luisa Spagnoli. A breath of fresh air, given by the attitude of the vital and playful protagonists, and by the styles that are a real boost of energy for the winter wardrobe. The setting is an evocative location in the Umbrian countryside – part of the fashion house’s DNA – in the garden of a typical local stone estate with a spectacular infinity pool overlooking the valley.
The watchword is freedom, experienced through large, airy volumes and silhouettes perfectly calibrated so as not to constrain the women’s bodies. «A celebration of going back to life, with an urban tone and feminine and sexy touches – says Nicoletta Spagnoli, who adds – There is a lot of black and white, but also that taste for colour that characterises us».

Long coats with a military appeal and oversized proportions, but also soft coats made in a precious wool and double-face cashmere blend, alternating with boxy shearling peacoats and extra-long sheepskin sleeveless jackets in a sophisticated coffee nuance. Outerwear also includes a British-chic trench coat with a cape cut, versatile and practical for a dynamic woman. And of course, the knitwear, a Luisa Spagnoli staple, impeccably manufactured thanks to the know-how of the Umbria-based fashion house, to wear during the day and in the evening. Fisherman’s rib stitched minidresses with fluffy sleeves, revised and corrected polo shirts – with plunging necklines and cropped cuts – tunics with side slits to wear alone or over palazzo trousers, pullovers with couture necklines and sleeves and coat-igans with shawl necklines.
This season, elegance moves around between masculine and feminine elements. The classic tweed blazer jacket with frayed edging to wear over matching bandeaus or lace-trimmed lingerie tops, and shorts flaunting bare legs. And so many trousers, high-waisted and flared, but with high belts tightened around the waist, underlining it.
The jumpsuit is the season’s staple garment, in stretch wool jersey or printed satin. Easy-to-wear to get ready and go out quickly, to alternate with looks like the merino wool dresses with flounced hems, fancy long dresses with slits and big shoulders, tweed robe-manteau or dinner jackets and sequins, to light up cold winter evenings. Even the colour palette is a hymn to a renewed life: cardinal red, intense yellow and cream, to mix with gritty animal prints, paisley patterns, and abstract designs.
The elegance of Luisa Spagnoli’s women comes also from those small touches, details that add a special allure to each one’s style. The season’s common thread is a reference to the imagery of Parisian filmmaking thanks to the nappa leather “baker boy” hats, the small scarves tied around the neck and fishnet stockings. Bold and sophisticated, at the same time, biting and incisive for a seductive and determined woman.
Seasonal accessories include suede boots with a tapered toe and high heel, the Nicky bag, and the new clutch in ultra-soft nappa leather with a padlock closure and removable maxi chain shoulder strap available in red, powder, black and tan.

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