Jil Sander is back at the creative helm of the house that bears his name. And while the Jil Sander woman is more feminine than under Raf Simons, the man is more sober.
So, yes, the house’s codes are present and sobriety stands out, but colors are not totally absent from the collection. Red, which could be described as “Jil Sander”, opened the show in a total look and made a few impromptu appearances. Klein blue, THE color of the coming season, received the same treatment.
All in all, this collection gives pride of place to shades of grey and black. Serious? Certainly, but never dreary. And what makes this miracle possible is Jil Sander’s perfect mastery of cuts and materials.
A recurring detail is the collar, which imitates the shape of starched collars on shirts in oversized versions. We see it on coats, in particular, and the designer has fun varying the pleasures by distinguishing it through the use of different materials and colors, colorblocking is once again present at Jil Sander.
We find prints such as tartan, checks and stripes that Jil makes her own without a hitch, and reworks without déjà-vu (special mention for the tartan coat in gradient).
Jil Sander’s return to the eponymous fashion house is once again crowned with success. His Fall/Winter 2013/2014 collection is an example of calculated, meticulous execution that doesn’t give itself the genre or the arrogance. The man favors research but also comfort and beautiful materials. And that’s exactly what we find at Jil Sander.
Photographs courtesy of the House Of Jil Sander
Mary Yasmine Arrouche
Cette publication est également disponible en : Français (French)
